Got up early and left Navarrete and walked to Najera had lunch. Perfect day for walking, beautiful weather, walked 24 miles altogether to Santa Domingo and found refuge.
Today is my beautiful daughter-in -law, Jennifer's birthday and I wish her a happy birthday and today's song is for Jen!
9 to 5 - Dolly Parton with lyrics
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Thursday, 31 October 2013
Wednesday, 30 October 2013
Day 73...hope there is no one snorkelling tonight....
Not the best sleep I've ever had, I kept being woken up by loud snoring, or loud snokeling as Sven calls it! Apparently, I use to 'snorkel' a lot during our last walk on the Camino, one night Henry who started off in the next bunk to me, moved during the night to get away from me. Apparently since losing the weight , I don't snore anymore. Not that my snoring bothered me but it did bother other folk! So another early start - left Los Arcos at 7.30 walked through beautiful countryside and stopped at Logrono for a lunch of a couple of yogurts and croissants. Walked across the city and though a lovely park with a lake and really good views everywhere, very scenic. Walked on towards Navarrete and arrived at 5 pm and found a good refuge called El Cantaro. There are only 2 canadian women and Beno from Switzerland here. I walked 25 miles today and I happy with my progress and really with the shorter days, it isn't possible to walk anymore. Like at home in Scotland, the days will keep getting shorter as the weeks go on.
Tuesday, 29 October 2013
Day 72.....very hard walk today
Eric and I left Puenta le Reina early at 7.30 at walked to Lorca and stopped for a coffee.Then we continued on to Los Arcos. It was a very hard walk and I was really glad of Eric's company, cheers mate. We walked 27 miles. It was much cooler today about 14c with rain showers on and off. Met another interesting guy, Malcolm from New Zealand and I enjoyed chatting to him, I went out to NZ a few years back and my mother has relatives living there, so it a part of the world I am interested in. We had a 3 course peregrino (pilgrim) meal for 10 e but I still felt hungry after it.
today's song.....Roger Waters - 5:06 AM - Every Stranger's Eyes (live)
today's song.....Roger Waters - 5:06 AM - Every Stranger's Eyes (live)
Monday, 28 October 2013
Day 71 ...The pilgrim statues
Had another great day walking with Eric. We left Pamplona at 8 this morning. What a beautiful walk over the hills to the viewpoint were the pilgrim statues are, this is a famous landmark on the Camino. Had lunch and then walked unto Puenta la Reina and stopped for the night in refuge - hotel Jakuna. had an amazing 3 course dinner and wine for 10 euro, so I'm off to bed a happy man! Walked 17 miles today, sunny and 20c - another smashing day.
Today's song -Rockin' Chair - The Band (The Band 8 of 12)
Today's song -Rockin' Chair - The Band (The Band 8 of 12)
This was taken last March with Sven and the others I walked with last time. |
Sunday, 27 October 2013
Day 70...My inspiration
The day starts at 6.30 in the refuges, nobody sleeps in and nobody can stay for two days so everybody gets going sharpish. I walked 25 miles today to Pamplona and enjoyed some stunning scenery in beautiful weather. I met Eric from Switzerland who is a great guy to walk with - there are many pilgrims walking now but they are too slow for McGarry.
Today would be my Dad's birthday but he passed away many years ago after suffering with Alzheimer's. I've been thinking a lot about him while I've been walking and I would like to thank him for everything he did for me. I remember him taking me on long walks when I was a boy. We also ran the Glasgow marathon together twice, but Dad ran it many more times than that. He was a great inspiration to me and helped make me the man I am today so thank you Dad and I love you forever.
Today's song is
Today would be my Dad's birthday but he passed away many years ago after suffering with Alzheimer's. I've been thinking a lot about him while I've been walking and I would like to thank him for everything he did for me. I remember him taking me on long walks when I was a boy. We also ran the Glasgow marathon together twice, but Dad ran it many more times than that. He was a great inspiration to me and helped make me the man I am today so thank you Dad and I love you forever.
Today's song is
Electric Light Orchestra - Mr Blue Sky
for my wee Da.
Saturday, 26 October 2013
Day 69...I'm buzzing, what a fantastic day! New contact details.
Really enjoyed last night, met lots of interesting folk, got up sharpish and set off on the mountain along the Napolean route, along a very steep and narrow path. I knew I was very near the Spanish border. I made over the border at half ten, what a great feeling, I felt on top of the world , I was up well over 4000 feet and the views were amazing, although I had walked here in March, it is very different at this time of year - it is cooler but really perfect conditions for walking. Walked over Col Lepolder and then a steep walk down to Roncevailes. I arrived at Roncevaux my first stop in Spain just before 4 and I had walked 16 miles, it felt like a walk in the park and I think I could have walked it over again, no problem. The refuge is great and has just opened recently and everything is new. The Camino is very busy with loads of pilgrims, what a contrast to the empty paths and empty hostels I have been staying in over the last 6 weeks. This has been my most enjoyable walking day so far. Fantastic....
I now have a Spanish sim card, as I was paying out too much for my Scottish phone, and getting charged for every call and text that I received, hopefully this will work out better for me and I don't think anyone contacting me will pay any extra. My number is 0034666816389 and if you dial 08437167777 before the number, you should be charged 1.5p a minute if ringing from a landline. You can check it all out on http://www.planet-numbers.co.uk/phone_spain.jsp and you can get all the details and I think there is also a different number if you're ringing from a mobile number.
Today's song is Johnny Cash - Boy Named Sue - Live - With Lyrics
I now have a Spanish sim card, as I was paying out too much for my Scottish phone, and getting charged for every call and text that I received, hopefully this will work out better for me and I don't think anyone contacting me will pay any extra. My number is 0034666816389 and if you dial 08437167777 before the number, you should be charged 1.5p a minute if ringing from a landline. You can check it all out on http://www.planet-numbers.co.uk/phone_spain.jsp and you can get all the details and I think there is also a different number if you're ringing from a mobile number.
Today's song is Johnny Cash - Boy Named Sue - Live - With Lyrics
Friday, 25 October 2013
Day 68...I'm at the start of the Camino, at last!
Started off early this morning about 8 o'clock, it wasn't quite daylight yet but already feeling hot at 20c. That's a great refuge that Jean Pierre and Marie Rose have, it was absolutely spotless and they made me feel very welcome - thanks to you both.
Enjoyed a great walk through the hills towards Saint Jean pied de Port. It got even hotter as the day went on and hit about 27c. I got attacked by another mutt, but I was ready with my staff and I made short work of it, I showed him who's boss! You don't mess with McGarry. Arrived at the refuge in St Jean Pied de Port. It felt great. This is where most people start the Camino across the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela - about 580 miles from here and this is where I started my walk I did earlier in the year but I only walked for about 10 days and walked a small part of it, this time I will finish it.
What a difference to the other refuges I have staying in, it's really busy and lots of good folk here. I've been chatting to Catherine and her children Tom and Libby who are here all the way from Australia and they are having a great experience on their journey. I think it must be a great thing to do with your kids - beats computer games any day. Had a shower and treated myself to a burger and a beer and went to Lidl to get some food for tomorrow as I know there won't be any shops on the way.
I've walked 25 miles today.
PS There are loads of pharmacies/chemist shops here and they display the temperature, in case anyone is wondering how I know exactly how hot it is.
Enjoyed a great walk through the hills towards Saint Jean pied de Port. It got even hotter as the day went on and hit about 27c. I got attacked by another mutt, but I was ready with my staff and I made short work of it, I showed him who's boss! You don't mess with McGarry. Arrived at the refuge in St Jean Pied de Port. It felt great. This is where most people start the Camino across the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela - about 580 miles from here and this is where I started my walk I did earlier in the year but I only walked for about 10 days and walked a small part of it, this time I will finish it.
What a difference to the other refuges I have staying in, it's really busy and lots of good folk here. I've been chatting to Catherine and her children Tom and Libby who are here all the way from Australia and they are having a great experience on their journey. I think it must be a great thing to do with your kids - beats computer games any day. Had a shower and treated myself to a burger and a beer and went to Lidl to get some food for tomorrow as I know there won't be any shops on the way.
I've walked 25 miles today.
PS There are loads of pharmacies/chemist shops here and they display the temperature, in case anyone is wondering how I know exactly how hot it is.
There's a hole in my boot! |
Only fit for the bin - au revior mes amis! Got my new boots on. |
Thursday, 24 October 2013
Recent photos!
another lovely sunny day walking with my first view of the Pyrenees in the background |
ready for the busy roads with my hi-viz! |
Old guys rule! |
Dark and mysterious |
This was taken in Dax, South France which is in the Basque region and Bull fighting is very popular |
This is St Jacques, the Spirit of the Camino there are many statues of him along the way.... |
Day 67 ...getting nearer to Spain
Sven got up very early this morning and left before I got up - it was great seeing my friend - he had driven 1800 ks to see me and only stayed for one night - would have been even better to have spent longer with him but it was great seeing him, he is a real tonic! Thanks for the visit Sven and thanks for treating us to our tea. Also had to say bye to Nora this morning as she was leaving to drive back to Bordeaux with the hire car. She dropped me off at Sorde l'Abbaye where we had finished yesterday and I found the shell marker easily and set off on my way. I've swopped rucksacks with Nora as mine was far too big and cumbersome and weighing me down. I also dumped my old boots and a few bits and bobs which were worse for wear.
My new boots are wearing in ok, I had been stuffing them with my torch and the coffee jar at night to try and stretch them a bit and it definitely worked, I know it is not a good idea walking with brand new boots but needs be.
Really enjoyed my walk today, walking towards the foot of the Pyrenees, stunning scenery and another sweltering day. Walked through a few wee villages but never saw a soul, just an odd donkey or horse. In this part of the world there are very few shops in the villages, as they rely on the market days when the wee towns are very busy with dozens of stalls, selling everything from fish to cheese, to soap to frying pans. Yesterday, Nora and I went round the stalls in the wee town we were staying in and it was very busy and people seem to have come from miles around and stock up. It is a very different way of life here in France to what we are used too, with shops open 24 hours.
I walked just over 20 miles today and I am in a great refuge tonight - a monastery at La Palis, run by a lovely Belgian couple, who offered me soup and coffee when I arrived. I'm the only one here but they are expecting a couple of more walkers later. At this rate I should be at St Jean tomorrow and in Spain by Sunday - hee haw....
Today's song is a great favourite of mine
My new boots are wearing in ok, I had been stuffing them with my torch and the coffee jar at night to try and stretch them a bit and it definitely worked, I know it is not a good idea walking with brand new boots but needs be.
Really enjoyed my walk today, walking towards the foot of the Pyrenees, stunning scenery and another sweltering day. Walked through a few wee villages but never saw a soul, just an odd donkey or horse. In this part of the world there are very few shops in the villages, as they rely on the market days when the wee towns are very busy with dozens of stalls, selling everything from fish to cheese, to soap to frying pans. Yesterday, Nora and I went round the stalls in the wee town we were staying in and it was very busy and people seem to have come from miles around and stock up. It is a very different way of life here in France to what we are used too, with shops open 24 hours.
I walked just over 20 miles today and I am in a great refuge tonight - a monastery at La Palis, run by a lovely Belgian couple, who offered me soup and coffee when I arrived. I'm the only one here but they are expecting a couple of more walkers later. At this rate I should be at St Jean tomorrow and in Spain by Sunday - hee haw....
Today's song is a great favourite of mine
Roger Waters - Amused to Death
in Bilbao with the spirit of the Camino |
Wednesday, 23 October 2013
Day 65/Day66..... A surprise visitor from Germany!
Spent the morning in the Guggenheim museum and then left Bilboa and made our way back north to France. Stopped off at an information area about the Chemin de St Jacques - it is definitely more known in this part of France. Found a B&B and worked out where I should pick the walk up again. After another French breakfast of coffee and bread Nora and I start on our walk. It was a lovely sunny day and the path which was well marked took us through a wooded hilly area. I really enjoyed it - most of my walking has been on flat and very similar looking countryside. Only walked about 10 k on the road today but unbelievably I will be wearing a hi-viz vest for the first time in my life tomorrow - There goes my street cred but I realise it is just too risky without it on these narrow roads. Thanks Thirza and Stewart - I know what you thought I would have said but even an ole biker knows when it's just not worth the risk! Got my Camino passport stamped at Sorde l'Abbaye. Walked 20 miles today.
On on way back to our accommodation - got a phone all from my German mate Sven - saying he was going to meet us in Peyrehorade - he had driven the whole way from Frankfurt! Anyway just back from a great night out - great catch up about our stories of our last Camino walk together - I wish he could join me for the walk but he's going back first thing in the morning - a flying visit!!!
On on way back to our accommodation - got a phone all from my German mate Sven - saying he was going to meet us in Peyrehorade - he had driven the whole way from Frankfurt! Anyway just back from a great night out - great catch up about our stories of our last Camino walk together - I wish he could join me for the walk but he's going back first thing in the morning - a flying visit!!!
Monday, 21 October 2013
Day 64..... It's a lot faster in a car!
Today we drove over the border to Spain. It was great seeing my first glimpse of the Pyrenees - France is very flat - perfect for cycling but I've really missed the views. We arrived at Bilbao at about 12 but spent a fractious hour trying to find the hotel - Bilboa is a maze of one way streets and even the local police couldn't give us directions and at that time we were only two streets away. We had hoped to vist the Guggenheim museum but it was closed so we'll go in the morning instead before heading back north to Dax where I
will pick up my walk again.
Wore the new boots around the streets and now my feet are really sore - it is hateful starting with new boots again. However my walking days are much shorter anyway as the daylight hours are much shorter but once I'm on Camino proper I'm hoping to average 20 miles a day because accommodation shouldn't be a problem.
Nora was able to show me the latest photos of my grandson Ethan and he is growing up so fast - I'm looking forward to seeing him soon.
Noticed an Irish pub round the corner so no prizes for guessing what I'll be drinking tonight but don't let on to my auntie Sheila. Cheers!
will pick up my walk again.
Wore the new boots around the streets and now my feet are really sore - it is hateful starting with new boots again. However my walking days are much shorter anyway as the daylight hours are much shorter but once I'm on Camino proper I'm hoping to average 20 miles a day because accommodation shouldn't be a problem.
Nora was able to show me the latest photos of my grandson Ethan and he is growing up so fast - I'm looking forward to seeing him soon.
Noticed an Irish pub round the corner so no prizes for guessing what I'll be drinking tonight but don't let on to my auntie Sheila. Cheers!
Sunday, 20 October 2013
Day 62 /Day 63....New Boots arrived!
Left refuge at 9am and enjoyed walking through a lovely forest - an odd shower of rain but a great day for walking. Stopped at Gourbera for my usual lunch of coffee and bread. Continued my walk to St Paul les Dax. Was getting very excited about my new boots arriving - booked into my room and had a bath. The hotel is next to Lac du Christ and I went a walk round it - there was some kind of festival going on with lots of music, traditional dancing and entertainers on stilts - there was a real buzz about the place.
Went back to my room and to my surprise there was a knock and there were my boots - I was delighted and it was great to see Nora too, of course! She had got a plane to Bordeaux and hired a car and made her way down - no bother to Wonder Woman! We're booked in here a couple of nights and I going to have a break for a couple of days - I've been walking everyday for 20 days - so it will be good to have a rest and also I'll need to try to break the new boots in a bit. My old ones have a hole right through the sole.
By the way there is a bike shop right across the road here and all I seem to hear is the sound of posers on Harleys - I wish I was out on my BSA 650 - there are some great roads for biking and the weather is perfect for biking.
Nora was saying that people were leaving comments on my blog but unless they are 'published' I'm not seeing them - I think you have to log in with your email address so that I can see them.
Friday, 18 October 2013
Day 61 ..blazing sun and dodging bullets!
Had a great walk from Onesse however while walking through the forest there were hunters out hunting and there were lots of shots going off, I just kept my head down and marched as quick as I could - quite unnerving ... Arrived in Lesperon midday and enjoyed my lunch on the village green - what a lovely wee place. After my break, continued to walk on a quiet road throughout the forest to Taller and arrived about 3 this afternoon in my destination for the day - a clean and comfortable place in Gite du Pelerins. I have everything I need here - really good place and I made my tea. I started rereading George Orwell's 1984, so watch out - Big Brother is watching.. I walked another 17 miles today.
Thursday, 17 October 2013
Day 60...That's my chores done for the day.
Noticing the days are closing in, it was still dark and wet when I started out from L'arc en Ciel at 8 this morning. I had to walk along a busy road for about 5k, it felt quite risky, I really don't like walking along fast traffic anyway I found a small track next to the motorway and walked for another 2 hours and then it took me through forest to Onesse et Laharie to my fantastic refuge for the night - auberge Caule which I have all to myself again. There's even a shop across the road, so I don't have to tramp around looking for one.
Again another night of housework, made my tea and washed my kit and got it up to dry. You're not the only domestic goddess, Lynne Gracie!
Ended up a lovely bright and sunny day and nice and warm - about 20c - walked 17 miles today.
song for todayOld Crow Medicine Show - "Bootlegger's Boy" Live at the Grand Ole Opry
song for todayOld Crow Medicine Show - "Bootlegger's Boy" Live at the Grand Ole Opry
Wednesday, 16 October 2013
Day 59...Another great refuge tonight
Much as I loved the teepee, my clothes felt wet in the morning so didn't feel great putting on damp clothes. Anyway, started walking at 8.30 and had a lovely walk by the riverside and forest to Pissos which is a beautiful little town and I had a coffee there. Carried on walking through more woods but then had to join a busy road which was very straight and long, quite a contrast. Arrived in L'arc en Ciel and found the Labouheyre refuge and was welcomed by Madeline. I was able to have a good hot shower and made a pizza for for my tea. I walked 18 miles today and it was a pleasant 20c with sun and showers.
Tuesday, 15 October 2013
Day 58 .... Never judge a man until you have walked a thousand miles in his moccasins....Jawahula!
Lots of figures and milestones today.....I've walked 1000 miles and I have 1000 kms to get to Santiago i.e. 650 miles but kms sounds more impressive. Almost 5000 hits on my blog, and nearly £1000 raised for Alzheimers on the Just Giving link, not bad going! I think there must be nearly another £1000 in sponsorship from various places so THANKS to everybody who has donated so far, it's really appreciated for a cause close to my heart.
Had an easy walk today 15 miles to Moustey. Met a couple walkers today.....going the opposite direction towards to Nantes. I camped in a teepee tonight, brilliant - I love it. Feeling like Chief McGarry. I can hear an owl hooting and wind howling, but also traffic noise, can't seem to get away from traffic noise, it's a shame really.
Song for todayJohn Trudell, Crazy Horse - The Original Video
Had an easy walk today 15 miles to Moustey. Met a couple walkers today.....going the opposite direction towards to Nantes. I camped in a teepee tonight, brilliant - I love it. Feeling like Chief McGarry. I can hear an owl hooting and wind howling, but also traffic noise, can't seem to get away from traffic noise, it's a shame really.
Song for todayJohn Trudell, Crazy Horse - The Original Video
Monday, 14 October 2013
The Day I met Liam and his C90 ....taken from his blog..
I was going through a particularly bad patch of despair when I came across a man walking up the road wearing a kilt and brandishing a staff. I thought I'd better stop and say hi, just in case he was Scottish. I pulled over and he started walking over the road towards me and I gave a 'bonjour monsieur' to which he replied 'all right!' in a very broad Scottish accent.
Day 57.......Slimmer of the Year - Camino style!
Left the wonderfully welcoming Liliane and Michel at 8 this morning. I was all wrapped up for the heavy rain and armed with a reliable map with a route all the way to St Jean, no more getting lost again- wuha!
Walked to Le Barp and made my lunch, and the sun came out. Made my way to Mons en Belin and found tonight's refuge, again having it all to myself. There's a woodburning stove in it but nothing to burn - annoying....just my luck. My rations tonight consisted of tinned ravioli with some bread and coffee. I walked 30 miles today...
Been reflecting a bit tonight on some facts and figures, tomorrow I will have walked over 1000 miles and I have lost 2 stone in weight along the way....I haven't felt as fit as this for years and I am finding the walking very easy, maybe because I am carrying 2 stone less!!
Walked to Le Barp and made my lunch, and the sun came out. Made my way to Mons en Belin and found tonight's refuge, again having it all to myself. There's a woodburning stove in it but nothing to burn - annoying....just my luck. My rations tonight consisted of tinned ravioli with some bread and coffee. I walked 30 miles today...
Been reflecting a bit tonight on some facts and figures, tomorrow I will have walked over 1000 miles and I have lost 2 stone in weight along the way....I haven't felt as fit as this for years and I am finding the walking very easy, maybe because I am carrying 2 stone less!!
Sunday, 13 October 2013
Day 56.....a wee treat of tea & cakes
Walked from Blanquefort to Gradignan. 16 miles walked today. Lots of rain on & off today but it was quite an easy walk. Arrived at Prieure de Cayac refuge to a warm welcome from Liliane and Michel, they were very helpful and treated me to tea & cakes.
Had a shower and now making my dinner, having pasta with chorizo topped with cheese. Mmm,tasty!!!
I'm all set for tomorow's walk to Belin-Beliet. It's getting colder now so I will be all wrapped up for tomorrow.
Today's song is cooperstown by the felice brothers.
Had a shower and now making my dinner, having pasta with chorizo topped with cheese. Mmm,tasty!!!
I'm all set for tomorow's walk to Belin-Beliet. It's getting colder now so I will be all wrapped up for tomorrow.
Today's song is cooperstown by the felice brothers.
Day 55..... Weather is merde
Walked to Blaye and got the ferry to Lamarque. Walked on to Blanquefort. Was a hard walk as it is wet and clod today.
Now in Gite getting warmed up and some dinner. I'd like to wish Sabrina the best of luck in her cycle trip to Santiago. Keep on cycling. 20 miles covered today.
Hopefully some better weather tomorrow.
Now in Gite getting warmed up and some dinner. I'd like to wish Sabrina the best of luck in her cycle trip to Santiago. Keep on cycling. 20 miles covered today.
Hopefully some better weather tomorrow.
Friday, 11 October 2013
Day 54
Day 54
Had a cold night in the caravan. Lucky for me Rab c nesbitt the owner had fixed the heater. Left the caravan at 8.30 and had a hard 25 miles to blaye. Staying the night in a refuge so should get a better sleep tonight.
Sabrina from Paris is in the refuge. She has cycled from Paris and is going on to Santiago.
Weather is changing now, it is starting to get much colder. I will keep clocking up the miles
Had a cold night in the caravan. Lucky for me Rab c nesbitt the owner had fixed the heater. Left the caravan at 8.30 and had a hard 25 miles to blaye. Staying the night in a refuge so should get a better sleep tonight.
Sabrina from Paris is in the refuge. She has cycled from Paris and is going on to Santiago.
Weather is changing now, it is starting to get much colder. I will keep clocking up the miles
Thursday, 10 October 2013
Day 53......Back in a caravan, great!
I've had a great day today, walked on the chemin (french Camino) from Pons to Mirambeau, lovely views, hills and lots of trees, much more the type of scenery I enjoy walking in. I walked 23 miles today and it felt like a breeze...it's funny some short walking days seem harder, but now I feel that I am in the swing of it. The weather was cooler today, but nice and dry, perfect walking weather.
I found great accommodation, a wee caravan to myself on a great site at the edge of the town. The supermarket is just across the road, it hasn't got cooking facilities but I've got my own stove so I made myself my tea. I'm surprised that the caravan site is so busy, it seems quite full - I feel lucky to have found this and it only cost 10 euro a night.
I found great accommodation, a wee caravan to myself on a great site at the edge of the town. The supermarket is just across the road, it hasn't got cooking facilities but I've got my own stove so I made myself my tea. I'm surprised that the caravan site is so busy, it seems quite full - I feel lucky to have found this and it only cost 10 euro a night.
Wednesday, 9 October 2013
Day 52...enjoying my day
The day is blazing down on the Camino, feeling great today and my song today is America - Ventura Highway (live 1974) ....more later
An easy 17 miles today, really enjoyed it, that's more like it. Great scenery, not so flat so I had good views and it felt good. I've stopped at Halte Jacquaire Pons and again 8 euro a night and again I am the only person staying. I'm going to walk up to the shops and buy some vittles and rustle up a good meal for myself. It's been another hot hot day - 26c......au revoir the noo!
An easy 17 miles today, really enjoyed it, that's more like it. Great scenery, not so flat so I had good views and it felt good. I've stopped at Halte Jacquaire Pons and again 8 euro a night and again I am the only person staying. I'm going to walk up to the shops and buy some vittles and rustle up a good meal for myself. It's been another hot hot day - 26c......au revoir the noo!
Tuesday, 8 October 2013
Day 51....Found first refuge for pilgrims since I left Scotland
After a good night's rest in St Jean d'Angely, walked until 11 and stopped to make myself a coffee when I met Annie and Gerhard who are on holiday from Germany - enjoyed the chat and I wish them well for the rest of their trip. Walked to Saintes and found a refuge for pilgrims walking the camino at St Eutrope - 8 euro a night. Went to local butchers and treated myself a big slice of lasagne which cost 7 quid (!) and took it back to the refuge and heated it in the microwave and scoffed it, it tasted delicious - so that was my tea sorted. This is a cosy wee refuge well run by another Annie. I'm the only one here and I'm catching up on my washing, I needed to bleach my t shirts, they were so dirty and I've washed my shirt - it'll probably look like a different colour when it dries - all exciting stuff. Feel relaxed about accommodation now, I've got a list of places to stay from here to St Jean Pied d Port, the start of the Camino proper and from there I know I won't have any problems so that's good. I walked 22 miles today.
Monday, 7 October 2013
Day 50.....A Big Mileage Day
I left St Hilaire at 8.30 this morning and walked for 2 hour then stopped for a bite to eat. I have definitely lost a load of weight but I feel very fit and healthy and my feet are fine now but I think a lot of folk would be surprised to see me now! After eating I walked on to Surgeres where I had thought I would finish for the day, and stuffed myself with a MacDonalds,(they get everywhere). I felt I was walking well and continued to walk to St Jean d'Angely and arrived at 8 pm, it was a long day and I walked 30 miles in total. Another hot day. I've found a fantastic place and it is good value, whoopee! Walking to Saintes tomorrow.
Sunday, 6 October 2013
Day 49...a man has to go, when I man has to go...
Marc made me my breakfast and then walked with me to the outskirts of the town, I really appreciated Marc's hospitality - thank you. However, during the night I really needed to go and I didn't want to disturb Marc, so I finished what was left of my orange juice and used the empty carton - so basically I had en suite facilities! I walked to Maillezars and had lunch and then met Daniella, a french woman who was walking part of the camino, the first walker I've met doing the camino in 49 days. We walked together for 4 hours and then said adios or should that be au revoir at La Roche. I enjoyed the company. I then continued to walk to St Hilaire d'Palud and then started looking for a room without luck - the cheapest was 55 euros. Eventually I found a room and including breakfast is 15 euros, that is more like it. It has been very hot today again and I walked about 20 miles today.
Saturday, 5 October 2013
Day 48....Best breakfast since Tilly Tearoom and back on two wheels!
Yves and Nelly made me a great cooked breakfast, not the Scottish kind but excellent all the same - french porridge and beautiful omelette - beats dry bread and coffee any day! Then they dropped me off back near the camino and I walked for 4 hours to Nieul St Lautise. Tried to go in the royal abbey but there was a wedding ceremony on so I couldn't go inside. Walked to Oulmes to Marc's (another couch surfing offer) house. Marc showed me my room and then offered me the use of his bicycle - it was great to be back on 2 wheels. I explored the area in a fraction of the time it would have taken me to walk. Pity it hadn't an engine, that would have been even better. Marc made me my dinner and I am now relaxing reading my maps and checking out where I should go next. It has been very hot today 26c and I walked about 12 miles altogether.
Friday, 4 October 2013
day 47...my first couch surfing experience
Today I walked for 3 hours through quiet empty villages. I stopped in a bus shelter as it was raining and heated up tin of beans and sausages on my wee stove. Delicious. Continued to follow Camino to St Laurente de la Salle. Not a single shop nor bar and met no one, it seemed deserted. Arrived at Serigne at 6 o'clock and made contact with Yves and Nelly who had offered me a bed through the Couchsurfing network. They picked me up and took me to their house and we had a lovely meal along with a friend of theirs, I have really enjoyed their hospitality and kindness - a big thank you to both of them especially after a few hard days, I really appreciate it. I walked 22 miles today and didn't get lost once - yeehaw!
Thursday, 3 October 2013
Day 46...Get your boots on
Left hotel and walked for half an hour, made my own breakfast - coffee and bread. Walked about 12k to Mouchamps and bought vittles for lunch. It has been heavy rain here today and I got soaked. My food felt very heavy in my rucksack but I am best to buy food when I can, can't be sure when I will get to the next shop. I arrived at Puybelliard at 4 o'clock and found great chambres d'hotes for only 20 euros - very comfy. Met no one today. I reckon I am about half way through France now with about 350 miles to go so anyone who wants to join me get your boots on and get out here! I walked about 16 miles today. My song today is the brilliant
Pink Floyd - The Dark Side of the Moon: Us and Them (HD Master Vinyl Recording)
Pink Floyd - The Dark Side of the Moon: Us and Them (HD Master Vinyl Recording)
Wednesday, 2 October 2013
Day 45 - Merci Beaucoup
Another quiet night in hotel and got going about 8.30 this morning. It was pouring down and thought I shouldn't wear my kilt so off I set my first day in my trousers.... walked 3 miles and then remembered that I'd forgotten to pack my kilt. Whoa! Went back and got it, lucky I'd remembered - I would hate to lose it. Enjoyed my walk today despite the setback, the camino is now well signposted, I see the shells marking the path and I walked along the riverside and quiet country roads, more like it but not another walker in sight. I arrived at St Fulgert about 7pm but again no hostels. I had hoped that there would be accommodation once I got on the French way but there doesn't seem to be. C'est la vie.
Tuesday, 1 October 2013
Day 44 ...Lost in France
Had a quiet night in hotel and went to tourist information first thing this morning. They gave me photocopies of the Chemin (french Camino) and I felt confident that I was on the right track but guess what - after I had been walking in the wrong direction for 2 hours, so ******* frustrating. It really isn't easy to follow, the paths are so confusing as I think they are mixed up with local tracks etc and really don't go anywhere. Ended up at Boussay so I had to walk along busy roads again to get back in the right direction to Montaigu. I expected to be meeting other walkers by now, but it is just not happening. I walked about 19 miles today, it was 21c and was going to sleep out tonight but it is now very heavy rain and have had to book into another hotel in Montaigu.
My pal from Ireland, Stephen Diver, great guy, is now walking the Spanish camino and I wish him well. Good folk I have met on my way have been donating on Just Giving on my link. At least this makes me feel a bit better and reminds me why I am here, thanks I really appreciate and it is encouraging. Today's song for me is............LOST HIGHWAY by Hank Williams.........how apt!
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