Translate
Friday, 22 November 2013
Frank's Big Bash
It's great to be back. Would love to catch up with everybody soon. Hope to see as many of you as possible, let me know if you can make it. Should be a good night.
Saturday, 16 November 2013
Day 90....I've done it - yeehaw!
I left Azura this morning at 8, most of the others had already got up in the middle of the night and left at 3 am. I had a great rest, best sleep I've had for weeks. There was a little light rain, but then the sun came through and I enjoyed walking through the woods and the villages. I walked for 8 hours and arrived at Santiago de Compostela - a final 26 miles, another marathon walk. Walked to around the cathedral, but was asked to leave as I had my backpack on,not sure what I was might to do with it, it has all my belongings in it - but they don't allow backpacks in the cathedral. I will get my certificate for completing the Camino tomorrow.
So that's it, I've done what I set out to do, I walked from Scotland to Spain - a final total of 1606 miles. Tonight in the albergue, I feel ancient amongst all these young travellers but the journey is now over for me. I met loads of people from all over the world, I spoken to great characters, been shown lots of kindness - seen beautiful places but now I feel glad it is over, I am really looking forward to getting home.
Thank you for all your support, and thank you for helping me raise money for Alzheimer's, there were times on the walk sometimes I wondered if I would make it, but I have.
As my dad would say - Jawahula!
Pink Floyd - Comfortably Numb (with lyrics)
So that's it, I've done what I set out to do, I walked from Scotland to Spain - a final total of 1606 miles. Tonight in the albergue, I feel ancient amongst all these young travellers but the journey is now over for me. I met loads of people from all over the world, I spoken to great characters, been shown lots of kindness - seen beautiful places but now I feel glad it is over, I am really looking forward to getting home.
Thank you for all your support, and thank you for helping me raise money for Alzheimer's, there were times on the walk sometimes I wondered if I would make it, but I have.
As my dad would say - Jawahula!
Pink Floyd - Comfortably Numb (with lyrics)
Day 89...one more day..
Walked from Ligonde to Arzua - 26 miles in total. Felt a bit cold in the morning but it brightened up later and was warm and sunny for the rest of the day. I am in the Galicia area and this is probably the nicest part of the camino, lovely green rolling hills, just like the Ochils at home. It felt like an easy walk and I really enjoyed it. I found a nice albergue for the night.
Can't wait to get to Santiago tomorrow.....
Can't wait to get to Santiago tomorrow.....
Thursday, 14 November 2013
Day 88......What's Italian for 'Shut Up'
Had a hell of a night in the albergue. The heating was on and it was far too hot and uncomfortable. Then to make matters worse a couple of Italians starting talking to each other when everyone was sleeping and then turned the lights on!!! I saw red and roared a few choice words in their direction but apparently they didn't understand my Scottish! However, I think they may have got the jist.
Despite all that, had a great walk again today - sunny and 16c, I enjoyed fantastic views of great countryside. Walked another miles to Ligonde. I am wearing my crocs again to save my feet from any more pain. Feeling good now, knowing I'm nearly then - the homeward stretch....
Despite all that, had a great walk again today - sunny and 16c, I enjoyed fantastic views of great countryside. Walked another miles to Ligonde. I am wearing my crocs again to save my feet from any more pain. Feeling good now, knowing I'm nearly then - the homeward stretch....
Wednesday, 13 November 2013
Day 87 ...about 70 miles to go
Got walking about 7.30 this morning and left Alto de Poyo while it was still dark and foggy. Had a great walk down the mountain and then the sun came out. Stopped at a bar for coffee and then stopped again for lunch - another spanish tortilla, it's ok but I'm looking forward to getting hame for some good scottish mince n tatties - can't beat it. Yum.
We seem to walk about the same distances everyday now about 25 miles and arrived in Sarria at 4.30. Met up with my pal from Switzerland, Benno, our paths keep crossing now for the last two weeks. Plan to get to Santiago by Sunday, I've checked in my flight. Bonnie Scotland here I come.
Tuesday, 12 November 2013
Day85/86...Welcome to the real Camino - Martin Sheen!
Monday
Left El Acebo and enjoyed a beautiful walk through the mountains to Ponferrada, stopped there for a sandwich at lunchtime. Then continued to walk to Villafranca del Bierzo and caught up with Eric and walked with him. I walked for 26 miles today. Spent the night in Galicia and enjoying the stunning scenery but it's really tough going now - only 5 days to go - yeehaw!
Tuesday
Couldn't get reception yesterday to get my blog sent home. Anyway another beautiful walking day, up high over the mountain about 1300 metres - fantastic views. Walked from Villafranca del Bierzo and ended up with a good crowd for walking, John from USA, Lorenzo from Italy, Jack from New Zealand, Karen from England and Taz, funnily enough from Australia. It was quite warm today about 17c, really pleasant walking weather. Our wee group are all staying in the same albergue at Alto de Poyo, which is right at the top of the mountain in the clouds.
Managed another 23 miles today, and my feet are so sore now, can't imagine ever having pain free feet again. It's funny that in the Martin Sheen film, 'The Way' nobody ever has sore feet and yet in the real Camino - it's the biggest challenge to overcome.
Left El Acebo and enjoyed a beautiful walk through the mountains to Ponferrada, stopped there for a sandwich at lunchtime. Then continued to walk to Villafranca del Bierzo and caught up with Eric and walked with him. I walked for 26 miles today. Spent the night in Galicia and enjoying the stunning scenery but it's really tough going now - only 5 days to go - yeehaw!
Tuesday
Couldn't get reception yesterday to get my blog sent home. Anyway another beautiful walking day, up high over the mountain about 1300 metres - fantastic views. Walked from Villafranca del Bierzo and ended up with a good crowd for walking, John from USA, Lorenzo from Italy, Jack from New Zealand, Karen from England and Taz, funnily enough from Australia. It was quite warm today about 17c, really pleasant walking weather. Our wee group are all staying in the same albergue at Alto de Poyo, which is right at the top of the mountain in the clouds.
Managed another 23 miles today, and my feet are so sore now, can't imagine ever having pain free feet again. It's funny that in the Martin Sheen film, 'The Way' nobody ever has sore feet and yet in the real Camino - it's the biggest challenge to overcome.
Sunday, 10 November 2013
Day 83/Day 84....definitely getting weary...
Saturday
Enjoyed an easy walk today, left hospital de Orbigo and walked to Astorga, ate lunch with other pilgrims, I think there must be people from every corner of the globe here. After lunch walked to Santa Catalina de Samoza and met Simon from Oz, he was a right character and I enjoyed his company, best of luck mate. Then got chatting to Viatka from Croatia who was great company too and told me all about her country, she works as a tour guide and knows everything worth knowing. Tonight I'm in a good albergue and I'm looking forward to getting back walking in the mountains tomorrow. The weather has turned much colder now, but I guess that is much the same as home, as it's heading towards the middle of November. Walked about 15 miles.
Sunday
Left Santa Catalina d Samoza and walked the 18 miles to El Acebo, started off with the gang and then walked until lunchtime on my own. Met up with Cyril and Viarta again. Enjoyed a beautiful walk through the mountains, amazing scenery and views, we're about 4500 feet up, and today has really lifted my spirits, but this last leg is so difficult, I have lost too much weight now and I'm looking forward to a break from the walking a eating lots of food and putting a bit of weight on! Never thought I would say that. I only have about 120 miles to walk now to Santiago, so I should manage that in a week easy and the pressure is off.
This is another fantastic albergue in the mountains, and there are wolves living in this area, that would really make my night if I am lucky enough to hear them howling.....
Enjoyed an easy walk today, left hospital de Orbigo and walked to Astorga, ate lunch with other pilgrims, I think there must be people from every corner of the globe here. After lunch walked to Santa Catalina de Samoza and met Simon from Oz, he was a right character and I enjoyed his company, best of luck mate. Then got chatting to Viatka from Croatia who was great company too and told me all about her country, she works as a tour guide and knows everything worth knowing. Tonight I'm in a good albergue and I'm looking forward to getting back walking in the mountains tomorrow. The weather has turned much colder now, but I guess that is much the same as home, as it's heading towards the middle of November. Walked about 15 miles.
Sunday
Left Santa Catalina d Samoza and walked the 18 miles to El Acebo, started off with the gang and then walked until lunchtime on my own. Met up with Cyril and Viarta again. Enjoyed a beautiful walk through the mountains, amazing scenery and views, we're about 4500 feet up, and today has really lifted my spirits, but this last leg is so difficult, I have lost too much weight now and I'm looking forward to a break from the walking a eating lots of food and putting a bit of weight on! Never thought I would say that. I only have about 120 miles to walk now to Santiago, so I should manage that in a week easy and the pressure is off.
This is another fantastic albergue in the mountains, and there are wolves living in this area, that would really make my night if I am lucky enough to hear them howling.....
Friday, 8 November 2013
Day 82.....about 190 miles to Santiago
My bunk was surrounded by snorers last night, the less said about sleep the better. Anyway had a good walk from Leon to Hospital de Orbigo today which is another 22 miles covered. The guys in main group set off at a very fast speed this morning so I stayed back and walked with Seonja again, as she is finding the pace hard to keep up with and was feeling discouraged. I didn't want to leave her walking on her own again. I walked in my boots today because although the crocs are easy on my feet, my ankles were getting sore without the support of the boots - so I've had to trade off one problem to avoid another problem. I hope my feet will last out for the last bit, I only have 190 miles to go, which doesn't seem much after the miles I have walked since leaving Scotland.
We are now leaving the Meseta area and are heading up into the mountains again. I'm meeting lots of nationalities from all over the world and they are a good crowd and good company but you see new and different faces everyday, it is so busy now. This albergue that I am in tonight is amazing building, it belongs to the church. The rooms are smaller with just 6 bunks in each dorm. I made my own pasta with choriza for tea and I am now relaxing and resting my feet, another early night but hopefully not a long wakeful night.
We are now leaving the Meseta area and are heading up into the mountains again. I'm meeting lots of nationalities from all over the world and they are a good crowd and good company but you see new and different faces everyday, it is so busy now. This albergue that I am in tonight is amazing building, it belongs to the church. The rooms are smaller with just 6 bunks in each dorm. I made my own pasta with choriza for tea and I am now relaxing and resting my feet, another early night but hopefully not a long wakeful night.
Thursday, 7 November 2013
Day 81...my flights are booked, no pressure!
Felt wrecked this morning, couldn't sleep a wink, a Spanish guy snored all night.... now I realise how annoying it is for other folk if you snore. I know more than anyone you can't help it but it is awful. Anyway, walked with Seonja from South Korea from El urge Ranero to Leon. I walked 25 miles altogether and it was perfect walking conditions, my feet are sore but like the saying goes - no pain, no gain. I feel I must gained a lot from this walk. I found a burger king, to be honest it was tastier than the pilgrim menu and I felt really ready for a burger.
Keith has got my flights home - and no, I am not walking back - booked for the 19th November, so I will have finished this walk well ahead of schedule, just better make sure I get to the airport on time! Anyway, thanks Keith - looking forward especially to seeing wee Ethan.
I'm in the albergue for the night, staying in a dorm with 20 other guys, oh oh could be a few snorers tonight....yawn.
Keith has got my flights home - and no, I am not walking back - booked for the 19th November, so I will have finished this walk well ahead of schedule, just better make sure I get to the airport on time! Anyway, thanks Keith - looking forward especially to seeing wee Ethan.
I'm in the albergue for the night, staying in a dorm with 20 other guys, oh oh could be a few snorers tonight....yawn.
Wednesday, 6 November 2013
Day 80.....these crocs are made for walking
The day started off very misty, but cleared up later and it was a lovely day for walking. I didn't put my boots on, my feet are really sore and now they feel too tight. So I put on my crocs, when I was here on the Camino in March I did most of the walk in these crocs, once your feet are really sore, they are the best and most comfortable footwear - as long as it stays dry, of course. The other good thing about them is they are so light and have been no problem to carry - I've had to ditch loads of stuff along the way but I'm glad I kept the crocs.
The breakfast at Calzadilla was poor - just croissant and coffee and I had to walk 12 miles to get to a shop in Morantinos where I bought some food. Then I walked another 13 miles to El Burgo Ranero and I am in a great auberge tonight - I made myself pasta and stuffed my face with loads of fruit and chocolate. The wood burning stove is lit here and it is really cosy after a good walking day. For anybody who wants me to add up, I walked 25 miles today in perfect walking conditions.
The breakfast at Calzadilla was poor - just croissant and coffee and I had to walk 12 miles to get to a shop in Morantinos where I bought some food. Then I walked another 13 miles to El Burgo Ranero and I am in a great auberge tonight - I made myself pasta and stuffed my face with loads of fruit and chocolate. The wood burning stove is lit here and it is really cosy after a good walking day. For anybody who wants me to add up, I walked 25 miles today in perfect walking conditions.
Tuesday, 5 November 2013
Day 79...that's me over halfway on the Camino.
A lovely bright sunny morning, but I wasn't taking any chances and put on my walking trousers, after getting soaked yesterday. I left Fromista at 8am and arrived at Calzadilla at 4pm - I walked 24miles today. By mid day I had hit the halfway mark, I have walked 250 miles in 11 days and only 250 to go, wuha!
Found a good albergue - great atmosphere here. Went out for a drink to local bar and a couple of Spanish pilgrims were playing guitar and they were really good. I met Jack from NZ, who's walking the Camino carrying his guitar, he played a little blues stuff tonight. Had a pilgrim dinner, to be honest I'm getting tired of eating fish, I really fancy toast and beans, or even better, a big breakfast in the Tilly Tearoom!
Found a good albergue - great atmosphere here. Went out for a drink to local bar and a couple of Spanish pilgrims were playing guitar and they were really good. I met Jack from NZ, who's walking the Camino carrying his guitar, he played a little blues stuff tonight. Had a pilgrim dinner, to be honest I'm getting tired of eating fish, I really fancy toast and beans, or even better, a big breakfast in the Tilly Tearoom!
Monday, 4 November 2013
Day 78....another hard day
Today was a hard day for walking, wet and very windy. Got soaked through from the knees down, I walked 22 miles from Hontanas to Fromista where I have stopped for the night. Most of the walk was along a high flat plain with a few steep climbs along the way. Really glad to get to auberge and have a hot shower and change into dry clothes.
Meeting different people everyday and seeing new faces, seems to get busier as I go along.
Sunday, 3 November 2013
Day 77.....Hasta la Vista, Eric.
Decided I needed to have an easier walk today, and walked slower, so unfortunately had to say goodbye to Eric, as he wanted to press on as usual. Go speed, Eric hasta la vista my friend. Walked 19 miles today from Burgos to Hontanas and I'm in the Meseta now - 800 metres up , but its is flat. Great views today and lovely weather. I'm in an auberge now - only 5euro and had the pilgrim menu - 9 euro. I'm looking forward to a relaxing evening.
Met lots of pilgrims walking along the way, but I just walked on my own - preferred it that way today...yeehaw.
Saturday, 2 November 2013
Day 76.....my target to finish - 14 more days
It was very cold last night and I couldn't get a decent night's rest, there was no heating in the room. I am still up in the mountains and the weather is very different to what I was walking in only a few days ago. Left Villafranca first thing and walked in the rain to Atapuerca and enjoyed my lunch of egg and chips. Still walking with Eric, he's a great guy but we do walk at times on our own and then catch up in the evening. I met an American who busted his head open when he fell out of the top bunk, I know sore feet are standard on the Camino but he's the first I've met who has a sore head! There are lots of Aussies and English too.
Got a comfy bed for the night in a cheap hotel, I'm feeling very tired, having such sore feet isn't helping. Eric and I met a bloke who is walking the opposite way from Santiago and he left Santiago 14 days ago, so that is my new target - 14 days to finish. That would mean I would have completed the Camino proper in 3 weeks - I've definitely set myself a challenge, so here goes, just hope my feet hold out. I've now walked 1290 miles since the 19th August.
By the way, I am not using that Spanish number anymore, it wasn't any cheaper so I am back on my UK number again.
Got a comfy bed for the night in a cheap hotel, I'm feeling very tired, having such sore feet isn't helping. Eric and I met a bloke who is walking the opposite way from Santiago and he left Santiago 14 days ago, so that is my new target - 14 days to finish. That would mean I would have completed the Camino proper in 3 weeks - I've definitely set myself a challenge, so here goes, just hope my feet hold out. I've now walked 1290 miles since the 19th August.
By the way, I am not using that Spanish number anymore, it wasn't any cheaper so I am back on my UK number again.
Friday, 1 November 2013
Day 75.....That's 2000 kms walked - 500 to go!
Didn't get a great night's sleep again, it's hard to sleep in the auberge with so many people around. felt more tired today than any other day on the walk. I managed 22 miles but it was hard. For the first day for ages, my feet are really sore tonight. I walked from Santa Domingo to Villafranca and it was mostly up hill. Villafranca is 1000 feet up and I really feel the change in the temperature, so my rucksack is much lighter because I am practically wearing all my clothes to keep warm - the kilt is perfect walking gear no matter which season! I am enjoying Eric's company, we don't always walk together but we usually meet up in the evenings and walk parts together.
Today is Ethan's birthday, my grandson who is 1 today and almost had the same birthday as his mother, Jen. I phoned him and spoke to him, he went to the zoo with his mum and dad and had a fantastic day. I send lots of love from Granda Mc Garry. I am missing you all and look forward to seeing you soon.
I am on the home leg now with about 300 miles to go. Yeehaw!
Today is Ethan's birthday, my grandson who is 1 today and almost had the same birthday as his mother, Jen. I phoned him and spoke to him, he went to the zoo with his mum and dad and had a fantastic day. I send lots of love from Granda Mc Garry. I am missing you all and look forward to seeing you soon.
I am on the home leg now with about 300 miles to go. Yeehaw!
Thursday, 31 October 2013
Day 74...Happy Birthday Jen!
Got up early and left Navarrete and walked to Najera had lunch. Perfect day for walking, beautiful weather, walked 24 miles altogether to Santa Domingo and found refuge.
Today is my beautiful daughter-in -law, Jennifer's birthday and I wish her a happy birthday and today's song is for Jen!
9 to 5 - Dolly Parton with lyrics
Today is my beautiful daughter-in -law, Jennifer's birthday and I wish her a happy birthday and today's song is for Jen!
9 to 5 - Dolly Parton with lyrics
Wednesday, 30 October 2013
Day 73...hope there is no one snorkelling tonight....
Not the best sleep I've ever had, I kept being woken up by loud snoring, or loud snokeling as Sven calls it! Apparently, I use to 'snorkel' a lot during our last walk on the Camino, one night Henry who started off in the next bunk to me, moved during the night to get away from me. Apparently since losing the weight , I don't snore anymore. Not that my snoring bothered me but it did bother other folk! So another early start - left Los Arcos at 7.30 walked through beautiful countryside and stopped at Logrono for a lunch of a couple of yogurts and croissants. Walked across the city and though a lovely park with a lake and really good views everywhere, very scenic. Walked on towards Navarrete and arrived at 5 pm and found a good refuge called El Cantaro. There are only 2 canadian women and Beno from Switzerland here. I walked 25 miles today and I happy with my progress and really with the shorter days, it isn't possible to walk anymore. Like at home in Scotland, the days will keep getting shorter as the weeks go on.
Tuesday, 29 October 2013
Day 72.....very hard walk today
Eric and I left Puenta le Reina early at 7.30 at walked to Lorca and stopped for a coffee.Then we continued on to Los Arcos. It was a very hard walk and I was really glad of Eric's company, cheers mate. We walked 27 miles. It was much cooler today about 14c with rain showers on and off. Met another interesting guy, Malcolm from New Zealand and I enjoyed chatting to him, I went out to NZ a few years back and my mother has relatives living there, so it a part of the world I am interested in. We had a 3 course peregrino (pilgrim) meal for 10 e but I still felt hungry after it.
today's song.....Roger Waters - 5:06 AM - Every Stranger's Eyes (live)
today's song.....Roger Waters - 5:06 AM - Every Stranger's Eyes (live)
Monday, 28 October 2013
Day 71 ...The pilgrim statues
Had another great day walking with Eric. We left Pamplona at 8 this morning. What a beautiful walk over the hills to the viewpoint were the pilgrim statues are, this is a famous landmark on the Camino. Had lunch and then walked unto Puenta la Reina and stopped for the night in refuge - hotel Jakuna. had an amazing 3 course dinner and wine for 10 euro, so I'm off to bed a happy man! Walked 17 miles today, sunny and 20c - another smashing day.
Today's song -Rockin' Chair - The Band (The Band 8 of 12)
Today's song -Rockin' Chair - The Band (The Band 8 of 12)
This was taken last March with Sven and the others I walked with last time. |
Sunday, 27 October 2013
Day 70...My inspiration
The day starts at 6.30 in the refuges, nobody sleeps in and nobody can stay for two days so everybody gets going sharpish. I walked 25 miles today to Pamplona and enjoyed some stunning scenery in beautiful weather. I met Eric from Switzerland who is a great guy to walk with - there are many pilgrims walking now but they are too slow for McGarry.
Today would be my Dad's birthday but he passed away many years ago after suffering with Alzheimer's. I've been thinking a lot about him while I've been walking and I would like to thank him for everything he did for me. I remember him taking me on long walks when I was a boy. We also ran the Glasgow marathon together twice, but Dad ran it many more times than that. He was a great inspiration to me and helped make me the man I am today so thank you Dad and I love you forever.
Today's song is
Today would be my Dad's birthday but he passed away many years ago after suffering with Alzheimer's. I've been thinking a lot about him while I've been walking and I would like to thank him for everything he did for me. I remember him taking me on long walks when I was a boy. We also ran the Glasgow marathon together twice, but Dad ran it many more times than that. He was a great inspiration to me and helped make me the man I am today so thank you Dad and I love you forever.
Today's song is
Electric Light Orchestra - Mr Blue Sky
for my wee Da.
Saturday, 26 October 2013
Day 69...I'm buzzing, what a fantastic day! New contact details.
Really enjoyed last night, met lots of interesting folk, got up sharpish and set off on the mountain along the Napolean route, along a very steep and narrow path. I knew I was very near the Spanish border. I made over the border at half ten, what a great feeling, I felt on top of the world , I was up well over 4000 feet and the views were amazing, although I had walked here in March, it is very different at this time of year - it is cooler but really perfect conditions for walking. Walked over Col Lepolder and then a steep walk down to Roncevailes. I arrived at Roncevaux my first stop in Spain just before 4 and I had walked 16 miles, it felt like a walk in the park and I think I could have walked it over again, no problem. The refuge is great and has just opened recently and everything is new. The Camino is very busy with loads of pilgrims, what a contrast to the empty paths and empty hostels I have been staying in over the last 6 weeks. This has been my most enjoyable walking day so far. Fantastic....
I now have a Spanish sim card, as I was paying out too much for my Scottish phone, and getting charged for every call and text that I received, hopefully this will work out better for me and I don't think anyone contacting me will pay any extra. My number is 0034666816389 and if you dial 08437167777 before the number, you should be charged 1.5p a minute if ringing from a landline. You can check it all out on http://www.planet-numbers.co.uk/phone_spain.jsp and you can get all the details and I think there is also a different number if you're ringing from a mobile number.
Today's song is Johnny Cash - Boy Named Sue - Live - With Lyrics
I now have a Spanish sim card, as I was paying out too much for my Scottish phone, and getting charged for every call and text that I received, hopefully this will work out better for me and I don't think anyone contacting me will pay any extra. My number is 0034666816389 and if you dial 08437167777 before the number, you should be charged 1.5p a minute if ringing from a landline. You can check it all out on http://www.planet-numbers.co.uk/phone_spain.jsp and you can get all the details and I think there is also a different number if you're ringing from a mobile number.
Today's song is Johnny Cash - Boy Named Sue - Live - With Lyrics
Friday, 25 October 2013
Day 68...I'm at the start of the Camino, at last!
Started off early this morning about 8 o'clock, it wasn't quite daylight yet but already feeling hot at 20c. That's a great refuge that Jean Pierre and Marie Rose have, it was absolutely spotless and they made me feel very welcome - thanks to you both.
Enjoyed a great walk through the hills towards Saint Jean pied de Port. It got even hotter as the day went on and hit about 27c. I got attacked by another mutt, but I was ready with my staff and I made short work of it, I showed him who's boss! You don't mess with McGarry. Arrived at the refuge in St Jean Pied de Port. It felt great. This is where most people start the Camino across the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela - about 580 miles from here and this is where I started my walk I did earlier in the year but I only walked for about 10 days and walked a small part of it, this time I will finish it.
What a difference to the other refuges I have staying in, it's really busy and lots of good folk here. I've been chatting to Catherine and her children Tom and Libby who are here all the way from Australia and they are having a great experience on their journey. I think it must be a great thing to do with your kids - beats computer games any day. Had a shower and treated myself to a burger and a beer and went to Lidl to get some food for tomorrow as I know there won't be any shops on the way.
I've walked 25 miles today.
PS There are loads of pharmacies/chemist shops here and they display the temperature, in case anyone is wondering how I know exactly how hot it is.
Enjoyed a great walk through the hills towards Saint Jean pied de Port. It got even hotter as the day went on and hit about 27c. I got attacked by another mutt, but I was ready with my staff and I made short work of it, I showed him who's boss! You don't mess with McGarry. Arrived at the refuge in St Jean Pied de Port. It felt great. This is where most people start the Camino across the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela - about 580 miles from here and this is where I started my walk I did earlier in the year but I only walked for about 10 days and walked a small part of it, this time I will finish it.
What a difference to the other refuges I have staying in, it's really busy and lots of good folk here. I've been chatting to Catherine and her children Tom and Libby who are here all the way from Australia and they are having a great experience on their journey. I think it must be a great thing to do with your kids - beats computer games any day. Had a shower and treated myself to a burger and a beer and went to Lidl to get some food for tomorrow as I know there won't be any shops on the way.
I've walked 25 miles today.
PS There are loads of pharmacies/chemist shops here and they display the temperature, in case anyone is wondering how I know exactly how hot it is.
There's a hole in my boot! |
Only fit for the bin - au revior mes amis! Got my new boots on. |
Thursday, 24 October 2013
Recent photos!
another lovely sunny day walking with my first view of the Pyrenees in the background |
ready for the busy roads with my hi-viz! |
Old guys rule! |
Dark and mysterious |
This was taken in Dax, South France which is in the Basque region and Bull fighting is very popular |
This is St Jacques, the Spirit of the Camino there are many statues of him along the way.... |
Day 67 ...getting nearer to Spain
Sven got up very early this morning and left before I got up - it was great seeing my friend - he had driven 1800 ks to see me and only stayed for one night - would have been even better to have spent longer with him but it was great seeing him, he is a real tonic! Thanks for the visit Sven and thanks for treating us to our tea. Also had to say bye to Nora this morning as she was leaving to drive back to Bordeaux with the hire car. She dropped me off at Sorde l'Abbaye where we had finished yesterday and I found the shell marker easily and set off on my way. I've swopped rucksacks with Nora as mine was far too big and cumbersome and weighing me down. I also dumped my old boots and a few bits and bobs which were worse for wear.
My new boots are wearing in ok, I had been stuffing them with my torch and the coffee jar at night to try and stretch them a bit and it definitely worked, I know it is not a good idea walking with brand new boots but needs be.
Really enjoyed my walk today, walking towards the foot of the Pyrenees, stunning scenery and another sweltering day. Walked through a few wee villages but never saw a soul, just an odd donkey or horse. In this part of the world there are very few shops in the villages, as they rely on the market days when the wee towns are very busy with dozens of stalls, selling everything from fish to cheese, to soap to frying pans. Yesterday, Nora and I went round the stalls in the wee town we were staying in and it was very busy and people seem to have come from miles around and stock up. It is a very different way of life here in France to what we are used too, with shops open 24 hours.
I walked just over 20 miles today and I am in a great refuge tonight - a monastery at La Palis, run by a lovely Belgian couple, who offered me soup and coffee when I arrived. I'm the only one here but they are expecting a couple of more walkers later. At this rate I should be at St Jean tomorrow and in Spain by Sunday - hee haw....
Today's song is a great favourite of mine
My new boots are wearing in ok, I had been stuffing them with my torch and the coffee jar at night to try and stretch them a bit and it definitely worked, I know it is not a good idea walking with brand new boots but needs be.
Really enjoyed my walk today, walking towards the foot of the Pyrenees, stunning scenery and another sweltering day. Walked through a few wee villages but never saw a soul, just an odd donkey or horse. In this part of the world there are very few shops in the villages, as they rely on the market days when the wee towns are very busy with dozens of stalls, selling everything from fish to cheese, to soap to frying pans. Yesterday, Nora and I went round the stalls in the wee town we were staying in and it was very busy and people seem to have come from miles around and stock up. It is a very different way of life here in France to what we are used too, with shops open 24 hours.
I walked just over 20 miles today and I am in a great refuge tonight - a monastery at La Palis, run by a lovely Belgian couple, who offered me soup and coffee when I arrived. I'm the only one here but they are expecting a couple of more walkers later. At this rate I should be at St Jean tomorrow and in Spain by Sunday - hee haw....
Today's song is a great favourite of mine
Roger Waters - Amused to Death
in Bilbao with the spirit of the Camino |
Wednesday, 23 October 2013
Day 65/Day66..... A surprise visitor from Germany!
Spent the morning in the Guggenheim museum and then left Bilboa and made our way back north to France. Stopped off at an information area about the Chemin de St Jacques - it is definitely more known in this part of France. Found a B&B and worked out where I should pick the walk up again. After another French breakfast of coffee and bread Nora and I start on our walk. It was a lovely sunny day and the path which was well marked took us through a wooded hilly area. I really enjoyed it - most of my walking has been on flat and very similar looking countryside. Only walked about 10 k on the road today but unbelievably I will be wearing a hi-viz vest for the first time in my life tomorrow - There goes my street cred but I realise it is just too risky without it on these narrow roads. Thanks Thirza and Stewart - I know what you thought I would have said but even an ole biker knows when it's just not worth the risk! Got my Camino passport stamped at Sorde l'Abbaye. Walked 20 miles today.
On on way back to our accommodation - got a phone all from my German mate Sven - saying he was going to meet us in Peyrehorade - he had driven the whole way from Frankfurt! Anyway just back from a great night out - great catch up about our stories of our last Camino walk together - I wish he could join me for the walk but he's going back first thing in the morning - a flying visit!!!
On on way back to our accommodation - got a phone all from my German mate Sven - saying he was going to meet us in Peyrehorade - he had driven the whole way from Frankfurt! Anyway just back from a great night out - great catch up about our stories of our last Camino walk together - I wish he could join me for the walk but he's going back first thing in the morning - a flying visit!!!
Monday, 21 October 2013
Day 64..... It's a lot faster in a car!
Today we drove over the border to Spain. It was great seeing my first glimpse of the Pyrenees - France is very flat - perfect for cycling but I've really missed the views. We arrived at Bilbao at about 12 but spent a fractious hour trying to find the hotel - Bilboa is a maze of one way streets and even the local police couldn't give us directions and at that time we were only two streets away. We had hoped to vist the Guggenheim museum but it was closed so we'll go in the morning instead before heading back north to Dax where I
will pick up my walk again.
Wore the new boots around the streets and now my feet are really sore - it is hateful starting with new boots again. However my walking days are much shorter anyway as the daylight hours are much shorter but once I'm on Camino proper I'm hoping to average 20 miles a day because accommodation shouldn't be a problem.
Nora was able to show me the latest photos of my grandson Ethan and he is growing up so fast - I'm looking forward to seeing him soon.
Noticed an Irish pub round the corner so no prizes for guessing what I'll be drinking tonight but don't let on to my auntie Sheila. Cheers!
will pick up my walk again.
Wore the new boots around the streets and now my feet are really sore - it is hateful starting with new boots again. However my walking days are much shorter anyway as the daylight hours are much shorter but once I'm on Camino proper I'm hoping to average 20 miles a day because accommodation shouldn't be a problem.
Nora was able to show me the latest photos of my grandson Ethan and he is growing up so fast - I'm looking forward to seeing him soon.
Noticed an Irish pub round the corner so no prizes for guessing what I'll be drinking tonight but don't let on to my auntie Sheila. Cheers!
Sunday, 20 October 2013
Day 62 /Day 63....New Boots arrived!
Left refuge at 9am and enjoyed walking through a lovely forest - an odd shower of rain but a great day for walking. Stopped at Gourbera for my usual lunch of coffee and bread. Continued my walk to St Paul les Dax. Was getting very excited about my new boots arriving - booked into my room and had a bath. The hotel is next to Lac du Christ and I went a walk round it - there was some kind of festival going on with lots of music, traditional dancing and entertainers on stilts - there was a real buzz about the place.
Went back to my room and to my surprise there was a knock and there were my boots - I was delighted and it was great to see Nora too, of course! She had got a plane to Bordeaux and hired a car and made her way down - no bother to Wonder Woman! We're booked in here a couple of nights and I going to have a break for a couple of days - I've been walking everyday for 20 days - so it will be good to have a rest and also I'll need to try to break the new boots in a bit. My old ones have a hole right through the sole.
By the way there is a bike shop right across the road here and all I seem to hear is the sound of posers on Harleys - I wish I was out on my BSA 650 - there are some great roads for biking and the weather is perfect for biking.
Nora was saying that people were leaving comments on my blog but unless they are 'published' I'm not seeing them - I think you have to log in with your email address so that I can see them.
Friday, 18 October 2013
Day 61 ..blazing sun and dodging bullets!
Had a great walk from Onesse however while walking through the forest there were hunters out hunting and there were lots of shots going off, I just kept my head down and marched as quick as I could - quite unnerving ... Arrived in Lesperon midday and enjoyed my lunch on the village green - what a lovely wee place. After my break, continued to walk on a quiet road throughout the forest to Taller and arrived about 3 this afternoon in my destination for the day - a clean and comfortable place in Gite du Pelerins. I have everything I need here - really good place and I made my tea. I started rereading George Orwell's 1984, so watch out - Big Brother is watching.. I walked another 17 miles today.
Thursday, 17 October 2013
Day 60...That's my chores done for the day.
Noticing the days are closing in, it was still dark and wet when I started out from L'arc en Ciel at 8 this morning. I had to walk along a busy road for about 5k, it felt quite risky, I really don't like walking along fast traffic anyway I found a small track next to the motorway and walked for another 2 hours and then it took me through forest to Onesse et Laharie to my fantastic refuge for the night - auberge Caule which I have all to myself again. There's even a shop across the road, so I don't have to tramp around looking for one.
Again another night of housework, made my tea and washed my kit and got it up to dry. You're not the only domestic goddess, Lynne Gracie!
Ended up a lovely bright and sunny day and nice and warm - about 20c - walked 17 miles today.
song for todayOld Crow Medicine Show - "Bootlegger's Boy" Live at the Grand Ole Opry
song for todayOld Crow Medicine Show - "Bootlegger's Boy" Live at the Grand Ole Opry
Wednesday, 16 October 2013
Day 59...Another great refuge tonight
Much as I loved the teepee, my clothes felt wet in the morning so didn't feel great putting on damp clothes. Anyway, started walking at 8.30 and had a lovely walk by the riverside and forest to Pissos which is a beautiful little town and I had a coffee there. Carried on walking through more woods but then had to join a busy road which was very straight and long, quite a contrast. Arrived in L'arc en Ciel and found the Labouheyre refuge and was welcomed by Madeline. I was able to have a good hot shower and made a pizza for for my tea. I walked 18 miles today and it was a pleasant 20c with sun and showers.
Tuesday, 15 October 2013
Day 58 .... Never judge a man until you have walked a thousand miles in his moccasins....Jawahula!
Lots of figures and milestones today.....I've walked 1000 miles and I have 1000 kms to get to Santiago i.e. 650 miles but kms sounds more impressive. Almost 5000 hits on my blog, and nearly £1000 raised for Alzheimers on the Just Giving link, not bad going! I think there must be nearly another £1000 in sponsorship from various places so THANKS to everybody who has donated so far, it's really appreciated for a cause close to my heart.
Had an easy walk today 15 miles to Moustey. Met a couple walkers today.....going the opposite direction towards to Nantes. I camped in a teepee tonight, brilliant - I love it. Feeling like Chief McGarry. I can hear an owl hooting and wind howling, but also traffic noise, can't seem to get away from traffic noise, it's a shame really.
Song for todayJohn Trudell, Crazy Horse - The Original Video
Had an easy walk today 15 miles to Moustey. Met a couple walkers today.....going the opposite direction towards to Nantes. I camped in a teepee tonight, brilliant - I love it. Feeling like Chief McGarry. I can hear an owl hooting and wind howling, but also traffic noise, can't seem to get away from traffic noise, it's a shame really.
Song for todayJohn Trudell, Crazy Horse - The Original Video
Monday, 14 October 2013
The Day I met Liam and his C90 ....taken from his blog..
I was going through a particularly bad patch of despair when I came across a man walking up the road wearing a kilt and brandishing a staff. I thought I'd better stop and say hi, just in case he was Scottish. I pulled over and he started walking over the road towards me and I gave a 'bonjour monsieur' to which he replied 'all right!' in a very broad Scottish accent.
Day 57.......Slimmer of the Year - Camino style!
Left the wonderfully welcoming Liliane and Michel at 8 this morning. I was all wrapped up for the heavy rain and armed with a reliable map with a route all the way to St Jean, no more getting lost again- wuha!
Walked to Le Barp and made my lunch, and the sun came out. Made my way to Mons en Belin and found tonight's refuge, again having it all to myself. There's a woodburning stove in it but nothing to burn - annoying....just my luck. My rations tonight consisted of tinned ravioli with some bread and coffee. I walked 30 miles today...
Been reflecting a bit tonight on some facts and figures, tomorrow I will have walked over 1000 miles and I have lost 2 stone in weight along the way....I haven't felt as fit as this for years and I am finding the walking very easy, maybe because I am carrying 2 stone less!!
Walked to Le Barp and made my lunch, and the sun came out. Made my way to Mons en Belin and found tonight's refuge, again having it all to myself. There's a woodburning stove in it but nothing to burn - annoying....just my luck. My rations tonight consisted of tinned ravioli with some bread and coffee. I walked 30 miles today...
Been reflecting a bit tonight on some facts and figures, tomorrow I will have walked over 1000 miles and I have lost 2 stone in weight along the way....I haven't felt as fit as this for years and I am finding the walking very easy, maybe because I am carrying 2 stone less!!
Sunday, 13 October 2013
Day 56.....a wee treat of tea & cakes
Walked from Blanquefort to Gradignan. 16 miles walked today. Lots of rain on & off today but it was quite an easy walk. Arrived at Prieure de Cayac refuge to a warm welcome from Liliane and Michel, they were very helpful and treated me to tea & cakes.
Had a shower and now making my dinner, having pasta with chorizo topped with cheese. Mmm,tasty!!!
I'm all set for tomorow's walk to Belin-Beliet. It's getting colder now so I will be all wrapped up for tomorrow.
Today's song is cooperstown by the felice brothers.
Had a shower and now making my dinner, having pasta with chorizo topped with cheese. Mmm,tasty!!!
I'm all set for tomorow's walk to Belin-Beliet. It's getting colder now so I will be all wrapped up for tomorrow.
Today's song is cooperstown by the felice brothers.
Day 55..... Weather is merde
Walked to Blaye and got the ferry to Lamarque. Walked on to Blanquefort. Was a hard walk as it is wet and clod today.
Now in Gite getting warmed up and some dinner. I'd like to wish Sabrina the best of luck in her cycle trip to Santiago. Keep on cycling. 20 miles covered today.
Hopefully some better weather tomorrow.
Now in Gite getting warmed up and some dinner. I'd like to wish Sabrina the best of luck in her cycle trip to Santiago. Keep on cycling. 20 miles covered today.
Hopefully some better weather tomorrow.
Friday, 11 October 2013
Day 54
Day 54
Had a cold night in the caravan. Lucky for me Rab c nesbitt the owner had fixed the heater. Left the caravan at 8.30 and had a hard 25 miles to blaye. Staying the night in a refuge so should get a better sleep tonight.
Sabrina from Paris is in the refuge. She has cycled from Paris and is going on to Santiago.
Weather is changing now, it is starting to get much colder. I will keep clocking up the miles
Had a cold night in the caravan. Lucky for me Rab c nesbitt the owner had fixed the heater. Left the caravan at 8.30 and had a hard 25 miles to blaye. Staying the night in a refuge so should get a better sleep tonight.
Sabrina from Paris is in the refuge. She has cycled from Paris and is going on to Santiago.
Weather is changing now, it is starting to get much colder. I will keep clocking up the miles
Thursday, 10 October 2013
Day 53......Back in a caravan, great!
I've had a great day today, walked on the chemin (french Camino) from Pons to Mirambeau, lovely views, hills and lots of trees, much more the type of scenery I enjoy walking in. I walked 23 miles today and it felt like a breeze...it's funny some short walking days seem harder, but now I feel that I am in the swing of it. The weather was cooler today, but nice and dry, perfect walking weather.
I found great accommodation, a wee caravan to myself on a great site at the edge of the town. The supermarket is just across the road, it hasn't got cooking facilities but I've got my own stove so I made myself my tea. I'm surprised that the caravan site is so busy, it seems quite full - I feel lucky to have found this and it only cost 10 euro a night.
I found great accommodation, a wee caravan to myself on a great site at the edge of the town. The supermarket is just across the road, it hasn't got cooking facilities but I've got my own stove so I made myself my tea. I'm surprised that the caravan site is so busy, it seems quite full - I feel lucky to have found this and it only cost 10 euro a night.
Wednesday, 9 October 2013
Day 52...enjoying my day
The day is blazing down on the Camino, feeling great today and my song today is America - Ventura Highway (live 1974) ....more later
An easy 17 miles today, really enjoyed it, that's more like it. Great scenery, not so flat so I had good views and it felt good. I've stopped at Halte Jacquaire Pons and again 8 euro a night and again I am the only person staying. I'm going to walk up to the shops and buy some vittles and rustle up a good meal for myself. It's been another hot hot day - 26c......au revoir the noo!
An easy 17 miles today, really enjoyed it, that's more like it. Great scenery, not so flat so I had good views and it felt good. I've stopped at Halte Jacquaire Pons and again 8 euro a night and again I am the only person staying. I'm going to walk up to the shops and buy some vittles and rustle up a good meal for myself. It's been another hot hot day - 26c......au revoir the noo!
Tuesday, 8 October 2013
Day 51....Found first refuge for pilgrims since I left Scotland
After a good night's rest in St Jean d'Angely, walked until 11 and stopped to make myself a coffee when I met Annie and Gerhard who are on holiday from Germany - enjoyed the chat and I wish them well for the rest of their trip. Walked to Saintes and found a refuge for pilgrims walking the camino at St Eutrope - 8 euro a night. Went to local butchers and treated myself a big slice of lasagne which cost 7 quid (!) and took it back to the refuge and heated it in the microwave and scoffed it, it tasted delicious - so that was my tea sorted. This is a cosy wee refuge well run by another Annie. I'm the only one here and I'm catching up on my washing, I needed to bleach my t shirts, they were so dirty and I've washed my shirt - it'll probably look like a different colour when it dries - all exciting stuff. Feel relaxed about accommodation now, I've got a list of places to stay from here to St Jean Pied d Port, the start of the Camino proper and from there I know I won't have any problems so that's good. I walked 22 miles today.
Monday, 7 October 2013
Day 50.....A Big Mileage Day
I left St Hilaire at 8.30 this morning and walked for 2 hour then stopped for a bite to eat. I have definitely lost a load of weight but I feel very fit and healthy and my feet are fine now but I think a lot of folk would be surprised to see me now! After eating I walked on to Surgeres where I had thought I would finish for the day, and stuffed myself with a MacDonalds,(they get everywhere). I felt I was walking well and continued to walk to St Jean d'Angely and arrived at 8 pm, it was a long day and I walked 30 miles in total. Another hot day. I've found a fantastic place and it is good value, whoopee! Walking to Saintes tomorrow.
Sunday, 6 October 2013
Day 49...a man has to go, when I man has to go...
Marc made me my breakfast and then walked with me to the outskirts of the town, I really appreciated Marc's hospitality - thank you. However, during the night I really needed to go and I didn't want to disturb Marc, so I finished what was left of my orange juice and used the empty carton - so basically I had en suite facilities! I walked to Maillezars and had lunch and then met Daniella, a french woman who was walking part of the camino, the first walker I've met doing the camino in 49 days. We walked together for 4 hours and then said adios or should that be au revoir at La Roche. I enjoyed the company. I then continued to walk to St Hilaire d'Palud and then started looking for a room without luck - the cheapest was 55 euros. Eventually I found a room and including breakfast is 15 euros, that is more like it. It has been very hot today again and I walked about 20 miles today.
Saturday, 5 October 2013
Day 48....Best breakfast since Tilly Tearoom and back on two wheels!
Yves and Nelly made me a great cooked breakfast, not the Scottish kind but excellent all the same - french porridge and beautiful omelette - beats dry bread and coffee any day! Then they dropped me off back near the camino and I walked for 4 hours to Nieul St Lautise. Tried to go in the royal abbey but there was a wedding ceremony on so I couldn't go inside. Walked to Oulmes to Marc's (another couch surfing offer) house. Marc showed me my room and then offered me the use of his bicycle - it was great to be back on 2 wheels. I explored the area in a fraction of the time it would have taken me to walk. Pity it hadn't an engine, that would have been even better. Marc made me my dinner and I am now relaxing reading my maps and checking out where I should go next. It has been very hot today 26c and I walked about 12 miles altogether.
Friday, 4 October 2013
day 47...my first couch surfing experience
Today I walked for 3 hours through quiet empty villages. I stopped in a bus shelter as it was raining and heated up tin of beans and sausages on my wee stove. Delicious. Continued to follow Camino to St Laurente de la Salle. Not a single shop nor bar and met no one, it seemed deserted. Arrived at Serigne at 6 o'clock and made contact with Yves and Nelly who had offered me a bed through the Couchsurfing network. They picked me up and took me to their house and we had a lovely meal along with a friend of theirs, I have really enjoyed their hospitality and kindness - a big thank you to both of them especially after a few hard days, I really appreciate it. I walked 22 miles today and didn't get lost once - yeehaw!
Thursday, 3 October 2013
Day 46...Get your boots on
Left hotel and walked for half an hour, made my own breakfast - coffee and bread. Walked about 12k to Mouchamps and bought vittles for lunch. It has been heavy rain here today and I got soaked. My food felt very heavy in my rucksack but I am best to buy food when I can, can't be sure when I will get to the next shop. I arrived at Puybelliard at 4 o'clock and found great chambres d'hotes for only 20 euros - very comfy. Met no one today. I reckon I am about half way through France now with about 350 miles to go so anyone who wants to join me get your boots on and get out here! I walked about 16 miles today. My song today is the brilliant
Pink Floyd - The Dark Side of the Moon: Us and Them (HD Master Vinyl Recording)
Pink Floyd - The Dark Side of the Moon: Us and Them (HD Master Vinyl Recording)
Wednesday, 2 October 2013
Day 45 - Merci Beaucoup
Another quiet night in hotel and got going about 8.30 this morning. It was pouring down and thought I shouldn't wear my kilt so off I set my first day in my trousers.... walked 3 miles and then remembered that I'd forgotten to pack my kilt. Whoa! Went back and got it, lucky I'd remembered - I would hate to lose it. Enjoyed my walk today despite the setback, the camino is now well signposted, I see the shells marking the path and I walked along the riverside and quiet country roads, more like it but not another walker in sight. I arrived at St Fulgert about 7pm but again no hostels. I had hoped that there would be accommodation once I got on the French way but there doesn't seem to be. C'est la vie.
Tuesday, 1 October 2013
Day 44 ...Lost in France
Had a quiet night in hotel and went to tourist information first thing this morning. They gave me photocopies of the Chemin (french Camino) and I felt confident that I was on the right track but guess what - after I had been walking in the wrong direction for 2 hours, so ******* frustrating. It really isn't easy to follow, the paths are so confusing as I think they are mixed up with local tracks etc and really don't go anywhere. Ended up at Boussay so I had to walk along busy roads again to get back in the right direction to Montaigu. I expected to be meeting other walkers by now, but it is just not happening. I walked about 19 miles today, it was 21c and was going to sleep out tonight but it is now very heavy rain and have had to book into another hotel in Montaigu.
My pal from Ireland, Stephen Diver, great guy, is now walking the Spanish camino and I wish him well. Good folk I have met on my way have been donating on Just Giving on my link. At least this makes me feel a bit better and reminds me why I am here, thanks I really appreciate and it is encouraging. Today's song for me is............LOST HIGHWAY by Hank Williams.........how apt!
Monday, 30 September 2013
Day 43....Freebird
Just had a killer walk to Clisson - left Nantes at 8 this morning, Walked to Vertou and found the Camino but not for long.....got lost and starting east, at Le Loroux Bourereau, made my way to Vallet and then to Clisson. I was walking along busy roads - did not enjoy that and then spent an hour walking around the town trying to find a hostel but eventually have found an hotel. A couchsurfer guy has told me that I will be able to pick up the French Camino from Clisson, tomorrow I will go to the tourist information and hopefully find the French Camino, Viva La France, I will be on the right track at last...
Today's song for me has been Freebird by Lynyrd Skynyrd - RIP Ronnie Vanzant
Sunday, 29 September 2013
Day 42 ...... a rest day in Nantes
I didn't walk today, well not far, just round Nantes, I really like it. I walked round the Japanese garden on Ile de Versailles, absolutely beautiful - lots of runners and cyclists - lots of fit women - ha ha! I like it here. I wanted to rent a canoe but the place was closed - pity it would have great to paddle on the Erdre would be have been good. Went to the Duc of Bretagne Chateau, it is superb. Had a great day but looking to forward to walking again.
Saturday, 28 September 2013
Day 41..... Back on the Guinness!
Had a decent night's sleep on a bench last night, wouldn't want to make a habit of it, but I slept fine and wasn't disturbed. Luckily it was a dry night but I had a plan B if it started to rain, there was a bridge near by. I was determined to get to Nantes as quick as possible and make sure I found a hostel, which I did. It was very hot and clammy today, not really good walking weather, so I called it a day walking wise after 8 miles. At lunch time I treated myself to omelette and chips with salad, yummy. I explored Nantes a bit, the cathedral is massive and an amazing building. The hostel opened at half 3 so I got booked in and then came along an Irish Pub called John McByrne and enjoyed chatting to Ross the barman. Had a pint of Guinness and it tasted great, first one since I'd left Ireland. Met a lovely couple Martin and Michelle from Jersey and they've paid for my hostel tonight. I really have been touched by how much kindness I have been shown. Enjoyed a shower in the hostel, feeling relaxed and clean again.
Friday, 27 September 2013
Day 40... 12 hours walking in 27c.....
This has been a tough day I walked for 12 hours, at least 30 miles but still didn't get to Nantes, and then can't find anywhere to sleep......maybe should have kept the tent a bit longer. I met Stefan today at Nort sur Erdre who lived out in NZ for a while and has returned to France to live - really enjoyed our chat, you're the top man Stefan, cheers mate!
Thursday, 26 September 2013
Day 39....250 miles into France - bon marche!
My rucksack is a bit lighter now, I left my tent with the Bouroux children, it was getting almost impossible to camp, all the sites are closed so I hope my good fortune will continue and I will find a bed for the night. I left Jean Pierre's about 7.30 this morning. Walked first to Fegreac and then along the canal to Guenrouet. Used my new gas stove today and made soup and ate bread for lunch. I had to give up the wood burning stove as I couldn't find dry wood to burn, which was a shame as I really enjoyed the wee stove. I had a phone number for a gite in Blain, but it was closed so I am in a hotel - nothing fancy but more than I should be spending but I couldn't get anything else. I really enjoyed walking along the canal and was lucky enough to see otters. I've walked 26 miles today and hope to get to Nantes tomorrow, another 30 miles. I'm feeling really strong and fit and the walking is no problem to me, only one toe giving me problems and I reckon that nail will come in the next day or so, and then it will feel more comfortable. I was a bit concerned when I was camping so much about the condensation in the tent was affecting my chest - anyway I feel fit and well - Bon Marche!
Wednesday, 25 September 2013
Day 38....I was born under a Wandering Star
Lee Marvin - wandering star has been in my head today, I'm back walking! I left the Bouroux cabin this morning at 7.30 am and got going. However, again I got lost on the 'camino' paths but I arrived in Redon at 12 o'clock. Enjoyed a lovely baguette for lunch. Then I walked along the canal to Fegreac, I felt really hungry and bought lots of vittles and stuffed my face whilst sitting in a churchyard. Again I couldn't find anywhere to stay, I asked in a local bar but there was nothing available. Then JeanPierre and Annmarie kindly offered me a room in their house and made me my dinner.....no more wandering tonight... walked about 25 miles today.
Lee Marvin - Wandering Star
Lee Marvin - Wandering Star
Tuesday, 24 September 2013
Day 37....The wonderful Boureux family
Had a different day today, the Boureux lifestyle and generosity is wonderful and I decided not to walk today and help with sorting out some drainage problems round a little chapel they are building. They are a lovely family - five children and have an 18 year old german girl staying with them. I've really enjoyed today but it wasn't easy digging ditches in the heat, but after lunch with the family, I had a nap in the 'cabin' which is just perfect for me. However, I vowed to keep walking so tomorrow I am back walking and hot to trot, the rest today was just what I needed. Thank you Marie Flore for introducing me to the wonderful Boureux family. It has been a great pleasure meeting them and their kindness is inspiring. I hope I will get a chance to return their hospitality in Scotland.
Monday, 23 September 2013
Day 36 ..... My accommodation tonight - a wattle and daub!
Felt good this morning, looking forward to walking - only one toe is bothering me now. Keep seeing bikes everywhere, I'm really missing my bikes - would love a spin up the Dukes Pass on my drifter right now. Sacre bleu, very hot today - about 24c and I found some shade and rested in a field. Walked from Quesembert to Malansac. Stopped and had a cola (no guinness here!) and was chatting to some really friendly locals, great fun. Now stopped up for the night at St Jacut Les Pins and have got great accommodation for the night. A wattle and daub round shed - which is a shed made from a frame of sticks and branches and then covered with mud, it's great, I want to build one when I get back to Scotland - I've taken loads of photos but I have no way of sharing them on my blog yet. It belongs to Adeline Boureux and I'm sharing a garden with donkeys and goats and a fantastic fruit and vegetable garden, they grow all their own - this is the real 'Good Life'. I walked 20 miles today. I'm meeting some great people but would love someone to come walk a bit with me - everyone is welcome.
Sunday, 22 September 2013
Day 35... met some lovely folk today
Slept well and decided to get walking, using compeed plasters on my toes and they felt fine. Walked to Treix where I met Anne and her husband who were cycling, they offered me a bed for the night but I had to say no, as I hadn't walked that far and wanted to get to Questembert. Met another couple - Don and Ellen in Gorvello cafe and Don said he knew a woman called Marie Flore who runs a great hostel in her home in St Jacque. That is where I am staying tonight. She made a great dinner and I enjoyed chatting to her, she has walked many caminos. It is a pleasure to stay here, thanks Don and Ellen and of course Marie Flore for your wonderful hospitality. Really enjoyed today even though I managed to take a few detours to get here, reckon I walked about 22 miles today. That's me walking now for 5 weeks and despite a few setbacks, I'm pleased with the mileage covered so far...
Saturday, 21 September 2013
Day 34 ....Not the best pitch I have ever chosen, thanks to another dog!
Rubbish night, didn't sleep much, must have pitched the tent on dog mess....my tent is absolutely stinking! My airbed went down and the tent was saturated with condensation, there was no wind last night and everything felt wet in the morning. Left Brech and walked to St Anne D' Auray. Went into a big church with a basilica and the priest stamped my passport - don't know if he noticed the smell which must have been coming off me, he never said. It felt hot today and it must have been in the low 20's. Arrived in Vannes at 3.30, but unfortunately all the hostels were full and I really needed proper accommodation so I walked to the outskirts and found an hotel - 41 euros, well over my budget but I had to have a decent wash and get my tent and stuff dry, I don't think I have ever needed soap and water so much.. My feet are sore again, I have lost 3 toenails and two of my toes are hurting now. I walked 16 miles today, may need to rest up tomorrow......
Friday, 20 September 2013
Day 33....met Liam and his Honda 90
A day of mixed fortunes...bad start this morning, could not find the camino - took me one and an half hours to find, stopped for lunch at 1 o'clock and then lost the camino again, frustrating. However, then I met a great guy Liam who was also lost. He is riding a Honda 90 around the world, you can check him out at wwwliam and c90. Really interesting....I'm really missing my bikes! I got going again and made it to Brech and am camping on the loch side, built a great fire and cooked my dinner. This is a beautiful spot. Hot and sunny today which made a great change after the recent wet days. Walked 22 miles today
Thursday, 19 September 2013
Day 32....over 500 miles
Had a good night camping, stayed cosy and dry and walked through the forest to Lochrist. The rain started to get really heavy about 2 in the afternoon so I needed to find somewhere to stay. I got the wettest I have ever before since I started, even had to put my poncho on - looked like a drowned rat. Found a great gite to stay in - only 18 euros a night, it's called 'Be at Home' , it is really comfortable and spotless, glad to be here. Walked 18 miles today - that is over 500 miles in 32 days....Scotland the Brave!
Wednesday, 18 September 2013
Day 31 .... 'Don't stop walking'
Woke up this morning, determined to cover some decent distance, walked from farmhouse near Gourin and got to Le Faouet at 12. Had a quick bite to eat and decided to take the main road to Quimperie, I am finding that the Camino route is not clear and seems to take me all over the place, I need to get on to a busier walking route. A lovely day for walking, bright and sunny. I grabbed a pizza to eat and am now camped in a field on the edge of town. My feet are sore but I am just getting my head down and getting on with it - walked for 10 hours and done an easy 30 miles today. Thanks for all your messages of support, it really helps. 'Don't stop walking'
Tuesday, 17 September 2013
Day 30....beginning to feel everywhere is closed...
I left Carhaix campsite about 8.30 this morning and found another Lidl stocked up with breakfast and some food for the day and followed what I thought was a path to Gourin - only after 5 miles of walking I realised I was walking in the wrong direction. Eventually arrived in Gourin at 4.30 only to find there wasn't anywhere to camp or stay. A girl in a tabac found me a room in a farm 5k away. It was a hard walk at the end of my day, and it was raining heavily, but it was nice to get a shower and feel clean again. However, after walking over 25 miles today, I feel I have not covered a lot of distance. I'm hoping as I travel south, the camino will have more hostels, finding hostels and campsites that are open is getting really difficult.
Monday, 16 September 2013
Day 29 - walked 33 miles today.
Today has been my longest walking day - left Morlaix at 8.30, found a good path, not many people were on it - only saw two other guys but they were on bicycles. Found a campsite at Carhaix which is closed but there are other campers here as well. It's a lovely sunny evening, not cold at all. My legs feel really sore this evening but I have walked 33 miles today! Let's hope I will be able to move tomorrow....
Sunday, 15 September 2013
Day 27/Day 28....been offered a Donkey!
Had good walk yesterday walked 18 miles, Morlaix was not the 10 miles south I was told, I think people tend to think in motorway distance, not the winding paths I'm taking. When I arrived in Morlaix it took me a couple of hours walking round to find hostel. The hostel is really good after two nights of camping in the wind and the rain. Made my dinner of chorizo n bread and a great cup of tea. Went for walk in town now in a bar great music and good people. Decided to have a break today and stay here another night, I had hoped my friend Sven from Germany might manage over to see him but no sign of him yet....This is a great place, the people are really friendly, buying me drinks and even an invite to a party. A local man has just offered me his donkey to carry my rucksack to Santiago. Would be fantastic but I can't see how I would manage to get it back to him when I finish, just too much hassle - so I probably won't take him up on it. So all in all a great weekend so far, except I've lost my first toenail, thought you would like to know that!
Friday, 13 September 2013
Day 26 A tough day - even a dog attacked me.
A tough day. Walked from Moguecier to St Pol de Leon. A vicious looking dog attacked me but I kept him off me with my staff and his owner managed to control him. Wasn't much fun. To add to that it has been raining non stop, not met anybody yet who speaks english and even with my French phrase book I not making much sense....I've managed another 16 miles and I am camped 10 miles north of Morlaix tonight. I haven't met any other walkers on the Camino yet. Had a pint of the local beer, no Guinness here. Like I said - tough day.
Thursday, 12 September 2013
Day 25 My first Camino shell
After 17.5 hours on the ferry, felt well rested and ready to get walking. I walked 15 miles from Roscoff to Moguereic in pouring rain - the Dutch guy was right about the weather. Asked for directions to the Camino way, only to be told it wasn't anywhere near there. Felt gutted and on a real downer. Found a campsite and set up tent and made myself a spot of dinner - bread, cheese and chorizo and went a walk around the beach wondering what direction I should go tomorrow to find the Camino. After only 100 metres from the campsite I found it - a post with a Camino shell on it.....I had found the way!
Wednesday, 11 September 2013
Day 24 Leaving Ireland for France
Camped on the beach outside Rosslare, a beautiful clear starry night - could see the Milky way. In the morning, walked the remaining 6 miles to Rosslare harbour. On my way met an Irish couple staying in a camper van (not as good as a CamperScotland one, haha). Noreen & Michael recognised the Camino shell on my rucksack and offered me a coffee in the back of their van.
Ferry left Rosslare at 4 - boat is quite empty and have my wee 4 berth cabin to myself - result! Was chatting to a Dutch man earlier who has just cycled round Scotland and the west coast of Ireland and will be cycling back across to Holland through France. He has informed me that the weather is to be atrocious in France tomorrow which made me think how lucky I have been with the weather through Scotland and Ireland - hardly a drop of rain and lots of sunshine.
Well, that's me with over 350 miles under my belt and only another 1000 or so to go.....it's been great so far, I have met lots of lovely and generous people. I would like to thank all my sponsors both in Scotland and Ireland - nearly £1500 so far for Alzheimers, so thank you and if anyone would like to sponsor me and you haven't yet, please go to FrankMcGarryJustGiving - it's easy.
Tuesday, 10 September 2013
Day 23
Left the hotel and walked into Wexford. We stopped into a coffee shop called Fusion run by Gerry. After a coffee I needed to do a bit of shopping so Gerry kindly allowed us to leave our bags whilst we got some supplies.
We went and got some supplies to take across to France tomorrow, a fleece and some other bits and bobs.
We went back to Fusion to collect our stuff and Nora then jumped on the train back to Dublin to catch her flight back to Edinburgh.
I then set off from Wexford to Rosslare which was 12 miles in total. I was looking for a place to pitch up and spoke to the Garda who informed me I had to camp outside the town limits.
I managed to find a spot on the beach. I set up the tent and made myself some pasta and a coffee on my wood burning stove that Michael made me. Brilliant.
Booked on the 4pm ferry from Rosslare to Roscoff tomorrow. France here I come.
I would just like to say a big thanks to Gerry and her customers at the Fusion coffee shop for supporting the walk.
We went and got some supplies to take across to France tomorrow, a fleece and some other bits and bobs.
We went back to Fusion to collect our stuff and Nora then jumped on the train back to Dublin to catch her flight back to Edinburgh.
I then set off from Wexford to Rosslare which was 12 miles in total. I was looking for a place to pitch up and spoke to the Garda who informed me I had to camp outside the town limits.
I managed to find a spot on the beach. I set up the tent and made myself some pasta and a coffee on my wood burning stove that Michael made me. Brilliant.
Booked on the 4pm ferry from Rosslare to Roscoff tomorrow. France here I come.
I would just like to say a big thanks to Gerry and her customers at the Fusion coffee shop for supporting the walk.
Day 22, 9th September
Left the hotel in Blackwater and walked to Curracloe. Had a great walk in the sun with blue skies along a long sandy beach. We even seen some seals along the beach.
We had a quick lunch and joined the road again to Wexford. We found a swanky hotel next to the Wexford bridge.
After 14 miles walked today we checked into the hotel and got ready. We went out for an Indian meal which was amazing, probably the last Indian I'll have for a few months at least.
We met Deirdre, an Irish fundraiser who is doing part of the Camino for Alzheimer's later this month. She recommended a good music pub, Loch and the Quay.
We headed there where I finished the night with yet another pint of Guinness. Perfect.
We had a quick lunch and joined the road again to Wexford. We found a swanky hotel next to the Wexford bridge.
After 14 miles walked today we checked into the hotel and got ready. We went out for an Indian meal which was amazing, probably the last Indian I'll have for a few months at least.
We met Deirdre, an Irish fundraiser who is doing part of the Camino for Alzheimer's later this month. She recommended a good music pub, Loch and the Quay.
We headed there where I finished the night with yet another pint of Guinness. Perfect.
Day 21
Got up and headed off from Gorey to Ballycanew which was 5 miles. We stopped for a coffee then Nora took a taxi to Blackwater 15 miles along the road.
I walked the 15 miles to Blackwater and met up with Nora. Whilst I was walking Nora had managed to find us a good hotel for the night.
We had a great meal and then I had a bath, sheer luxury. Making the most of it as when get into France & Spain it will be hostels and camping all the way.
After the bath I noticed a few blisters and a few dodgy looking toenails, maybe going to fall off soon.
I walked the 15 miles to Blackwater and met up with Nora. Whilst I was walking Nora had managed to find us a good hotel for the night.
We had a great meal and then I had a bath, sheer luxury. Making the most of it as when get into France & Spain it will be hostels and camping all the way.
After the bath I noticed a few blisters and a few dodgy looking toenails, maybe going to fall off soon.
Day 20
Had a great nights sleep at the Cherrybrook B&B in Avoca.
After breakfast we walked 6 miles from Avoca to Arclow and stopped off for a coffee.
We nipped in to an Internet cafe and managed to get the ferry booked from Cork to Roscoff next wednesday 11th September.
Once we finished our coffee we walked on from Arclow to Gorey then decided to stop for the day. That was another 12 miles and 18 in total for the day.
We found a B&B and had a lovely meal in there.
That's over 300 miles now walked so far. All going well.
After breakfast we walked 6 miles from Avoca to Arclow and stopped off for a coffee.
We nipped in to an Internet cafe and managed to get the ferry booked from Cork to Roscoff next wednesday 11th September.
Once we finished our coffee we walked on from Arclow to Gorey then decided to stop for the day. That was another 12 miles and 18 in total for the day.
We found a B&B and had a lovely meal in there.
That's over 300 miles now walked so far. All going well.
Day 19
The Scenery might be wonderful but my word it was cold up here in the mountain hut last night. After a hard walk yesterday it was the last thing we needed.
Nora thought yesterday was an endurance test.
We got up and walked down to Glenmalure and had a great breakfast. Nora got a lift to Avoca and i walked there to meet her.
We stopped there for the night and Nora had found a lovely B&B the Cherrybank.
Had Fish & Chips for dinner which topped off a good day.
Another 12 miles covered today
Nora thought yesterday was an endurance test.
We got up and walked down to Glenmalure and had a great breakfast. Nora got a lift to Avoca and i walked there to meet her.
We stopped there for the night and Nora had found a lovely B&B the Cherrybank.
Had Fish & Chips for dinner which topped off a good day.
Another 12 miles covered today
Day 18
We had an awesome day today, was great to have Nora alongside me today on the walk.
We set off from the B&B and walked from Roundwood through Glendalough over the mountains. The scenery on the way up here is unbelievable.
Loads of films have been made in this area including Rob Roy and of course Braveheart.
Freedom!
We arrived just as it was getting dark to the mountain shelter and lucky for us an American guy Jeff had organized a great campfire and we made our tea and settled for the night. It was a long day and we had walked over 20 miles. The shelter we stayed in was like this one we has passed some 17kms earlier in the day.
We set off from the B&B and walked from Roundwood through Glendalough over the mountains. The scenery on the way up here is unbelievable.
Loads of films have been made in this area including Rob Roy and of course Braveheart.
Freedom!
We arrived just as it was getting dark to the mountain shelter and lucky for us an American guy Jeff had organized a great campfire and we made our tea and settled for the night. It was a long day and we had walked over 20 miles. The shelter we stayed in was like this one we has passed some 17kms earlier in the day.
Saturday, 7 September 2013
Day 17
Got up and left knockree hostel. Whilst staying at the lodge I met a Polish guy named Karol. We were both going in the same direction so decided that we would walk together tomorrow.
We set off and walked through the forest and mountains, some cracking view across the Wicklow way.
Managed to get another 20 miles covered today. We arrived at Roundwood village and I said goodbye to Karol.
I made my way to the Ashlawn B&B and met Nora, was great to see her. Had a wee rest then we went into town for a lovely meal followed by a nice walk back to the B&B
We set off and walked through the forest and mountains, some cracking view across the Wicklow way.
Managed to get another 20 miles covered today. We arrived at Roundwood village and I said goodbye to Karol.
I made my way to the Ashlawn B&B and met Nora, was great to see her. Had a wee rest then we went into town for a lovely meal followed by a nice walk back to the B&B
Wednesday, 4 September 2013
Day 16
Up early this morning and really looking forward to the walk today.
No more roads for a while and can't wait. Got on to the wicklow way and walked the trails that run through the mountains. Unbeleivable views and a pleasure to walk through here, hopefully get some photos up on the blog soon. Really is some stunning scenery
After the past 2 days walking this is a welcome relief to walk here, managed to get 18 miles done today and the weather was 24 degrees and sunny. Excellent walk today.
Nora coming out to meet me tomorrow so will probably take it easy for a couple of days and get some pictures sorted to get on the blog.
Over & out
No more roads for a while and can't wait. Got on to the wicklow way and walked the trails that run through the mountains. Unbeleivable views and a pleasure to walk through here, hopefully get some photos up on the blog soon. Really is some stunning scenery
After the past 2 days walking this is a welcome relief to walk here, managed to get 18 miles done today and the weather was 24 degrees and sunny. Excellent walk today.
Nora coming out to meet me tomorrow so will probably take it easy for a couple of days and get some pictures sorted to get on the blog.
Over & out
Tuesday, 3 September 2013
Day 15, 2nd September
Left Skerries and set off on my way to Dublin.
Walked through Swords to Dublin. Roughly 18-20 miles. This was by far the worst part of the walk so far, mainly all on a busy road as there were little or no pavements for walk on, was not an enjoyable walk today, mentally very tough.
After 18 miles i decided to call it a day and found a great hostel called the Citi Hostel in Dublin.
Once i got settled in and after a shower i went to the Temple bar for a few pints of well deserved Guinness and some dinner.
Heading for the Wicklow Way tomorrow and really looking forward to that.
http://www.wicklowway.com/
Walked through Swords to Dublin. Roughly 18-20 miles. This was by far the worst part of the walk so far, mainly all on a busy road as there were little or no pavements for walk on, was not an enjoyable walk today, mentally very tough.
After 18 miles i decided to call it a day and found a great hostel called the Citi Hostel in Dublin.
Once i got settled in and after a shower i went to the Temple bar for a few pints of well deserved Guinness and some dinner.
Heading for the Wicklow Way tomorrow and really looking forward to that.
http://www.wicklowway.com/
Day 14
After a good days rest on Saturday I got packed up and left the Spoon & Stars Hostel and said my goodbyes to Hannah & Rory. Thanks you for your hospitality, was great to meet you.
I Set off from Drogheda and walked to Balbriggan. Stopped and had a subway for lunch and had a wee break.
Set back off and walked from Balbriggan to Skerries. Was a hadr walk today, mainly on roads and not many pavements to walk on.
Was a hard walk today and got to a place called Skerries and decided to pitch up for the night. Pitched up on the beach. A beautriful spot to camp out and a beautiful place to be in
Went into a pub for a pint of Guinness and a burger & chips for my dinner.
I Set off from Drogheda and walked to Balbriggan. Stopped and had a subway for lunch and had a wee break.
Set back off and walked from Balbriggan to Skerries. Was a hadr walk today, mainly on roads and not many pavements to walk on.
Was a hard walk today and got to a place called Skerries and decided to pitch up for the night. Pitched up on the beach. A beautriful spot to camp out and a beautiful place to be in
Went into a pub for a pint of Guinness and a burger & chips for my dinner.
Monday, 2 September 2013
Day 12 & 13
Woke up and got the tent and everything packed up. After some thinking Kenny decided to go home as could not continue to walk any further due to his feet killing him.
I said goodbye to Kenny and set off from Annagassan and made my way to Drogheda 18 miles along the coast road.
A big thank you to Rob & Henry the 2 lifeguard's i met on the beach, really appreciate your support, was great to meet you.
I found a great hostel called the Spoon and Stars run by Hannah & Rory. After the walk today i decided to stop here for the night.
It has been a long hard week so I've decided to take tomorrow off and just take it easy and have a rest then get back on the walk on Sunday.
I said goodbye to Kenny and set off from Annagassan and made my way to Drogheda 18 miles along the coast road.
A big thank you to Rob & Henry the 2 lifeguard's i met on the beach, really appreciate your support, was great to meet you.
I found a great hostel called the Spoon and Stars run by Hannah & Rory. After the walk today i decided to stop here for the night.
It has been a long hard week so I've decided to take tomorrow off and just take it easy and have a rest then get back on the walk on Sunday.
Friday, 30 August 2013
Day 11
Got up and packed the tent away and left the campsite at Rostrevor.
Today we managed roughly 20 miles but Kenny's feet are in a bit of a bad way so may need to slow down a bit tomorrow and see how it goes.
We went through Warrenpoint to Dundalk which was a lovely walk. Once we had a break we then headed down the coast to Annagassan.
We have pitched up on the beach for tonight and plan for a good rest and let Kenny's feet get a well deserved break
Today we managed roughly 20 miles but Kenny's feet are in a bit of a bad way so may need to slow down a bit tomorrow and see how it goes.
We went through Warrenpoint to Dundalk which was a lovely walk. Once we had a break we then headed down the coast to Annagassan.
We have pitched up on the beach for tonight and plan for a good rest and let Kenny's feet get a well deserved break
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)