Day 69...I'm buzzing, what a fantastic day! New contact details.

Really enjoyed last night, met lots of interesting folk, got up sharpish and set off on the mountain along the Napolean route, along a very steep and narrow path. I knew I was very near the Spanish border.  I made over the border at half ten, what a great feeling, I felt on top of the world , I was up well over 4000 feet and the views were amazing, although I had walked here in March, it is very different at this time of year - it is cooler but really perfect conditions for walking. Walked over Col Lepolder and then a steep walk down to Roncevailes.   I arrived at Roncevaux my first stop in Spain just before 4 and I had walked 16 miles, it felt like a walk in the park and I think I could have walked it over again, no problem.  The refuge is great and has just opened recently and everything is new.  The Camino is very busy with loads of pilgrims, what a contrast to the empty paths and empty hostels I have been staying in over the last 6 weeks.  This has been my most enjoyable walking day so far. Fantastic....

I now have a Spanish sim card, as I was paying out too much for my Scottish phone, and getting charged for every call and text that I received, hopefully this will work out better for me and I don't think anyone contacting me will pay any extra.  My number is 0034666816389 and if you dial 08437167777  before the number, you should be charged 1.5p a minute if ringing from a landline.  You can check it all out on  http://www.planet-numbers.co.uk/phone_spain.jsp and you can get all the details and I think there is also a different number if you're ringing from a mobile number.

Today's song is    Johnny Cash - Boy Named Sue - Live - With Lyrics
 

Day 68...I'm at the start of the Camino, at last!

Started off early this morning about 8 o'clock, it wasn't quite daylight yet but already feeling hot at 20c.  That's a great refuge that Jean Pierre and Marie Rose have, it was absolutely spotless and they made me feel very welcome - thanks to you both. 

Enjoyed a great walk through the hills towards Saint Jean pied de Port.  It got even hotter as the day went on and hit about 27c.  I got attacked by another mutt, but I was ready with my staff and I made short work of it, I showed him who's boss! You don't mess with McGarry.  Arrived at the refuge in St Jean Pied de Port. It felt great.  This is where most people start the Camino across the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela - about 580 miles from here and this is where I started my walk I did earlier in the year but I only walked for about 10 days and walked a small part of it, this time I will finish it.

 What a difference to the other refuges I have staying in, it's really busy and lots of good folk here.  I've been chatting to Catherine and her children Tom and Libby who are here all the way from Australia and they are having a great experience on their journey.  I think it must be a great thing to do with your kids - beats computer games any day.  Had a shower and treated myself to a burger and a beer and went to Lidl to get some food for tomorrow as I know there won't be any shops on the way.  

I've walked 25 miles today.

PS There are loads of  pharmacies/chemist shops here and they display the temperature, in case anyone is wondering how I know exactly how hot it is.

There's a hole in my boot!

Only fit for the bin - au revior  mes amis!
Got my new boots on.

Recent photos!

Sven my friend from Germany drove over to meet me for a meal - a round trip of over 3500 kms!

another lovely sunny day walking with my first view of the Pyrenees in the background

ready for the busy roads with my hi-viz!

Old guys rule!

Dark and mysterious 

This was taken in Dax, South France which is in the Basque region and Bull fighting is very popular

This is St Jacques, the Spirit of the Camino there are many statues of him along the way....

Day 67 ...getting nearer to Spain

Sven got up very early this morning and left before I got up - it was great seeing my friend - he had driven 1800 ks to see me and only stayed for one night - would have been even better to have spent longer with him but it was great seeing him, he is a real tonic!  Thanks for the visit Sven and thanks for treating us to our tea.  Also had to say bye to Nora this morning  as she was leaving to drive back to Bordeaux with the hire car.  She dropped me off at Sorde l'Abbaye where we had finished yesterday and I found the shell marker easily and set off on my way.  I've swopped rucksacks with Nora as mine was far too big and cumbersome and weighing me down.  I also dumped my old boots and a few bits and bobs which were worse for wear.  
My new boots are wearing in ok, I had been stuffing them with my torch and the coffee jar at night to try and stretch them a bit and it definitely worked, I know it is not a good idea walking with brand new boots but needs be.   
Really enjoyed my walk today, walking towards the foot of the Pyrenees, stunning scenery and  another sweltering day.  Walked through a few wee villages but never saw a soul, just an odd donkey or horse.  In this part of the world there are very few shops in the villages, as they rely on the market days when the wee towns are very busy with dozens of stalls, selling everything from fish to cheese, to soap to frying pans.  Yesterday, Nora and I went round the stalls in the wee town we were staying in and it was very busy and people seem to have come from miles around and stock up.  It is a very different way of life here in France to what we are used too, with shops open 24 hours. 
I walked just over 20 miles today and I am in a great refuge tonight - a monastery at La Palis, run by a lovely Belgian couple, who offered me soup and coffee when I arrived.  I'm the only one here but they are expecting a couple of more walkers later. At this rate I should be at St Jean tomorrow and in Spain by Sunday - hee haw....
Today's song is a great favourite of mine

Roger Waters - Amused to Death

in Bilbao with the spirit of the Camino

Day 65/Day66..... A surprise visitor from Germany!

Spent the morning in the Guggenheim museum and then left Bilboa and made our way back north to France. Stopped off at an information area about the Chemin de St Jacques - it is definitely more known in this part of France.  Found a B&B and worked out where I should pick the walk up again. After another French breakfast of coffee and bread Nora and I start on our walk. It  was a lovely sunny day and the path which was well marked took us through a wooded hilly area. I really enjoyed it - most of my walking has been on flat and very similar  looking countryside. Only walked about 10 k on the road today but unbelievably I will be wearing a hi-viz vest for the first time in my life tomorrow - There goes my street cred but I realise it is just too risky without it on these narrow roads.  Thanks Thirza and Stewart - I know what you thought I would have said but even an ole biker knows when it's just not worth the risk!  Got my Camino passport stamped at Sorde l'Abbaye.  Walked 20 miles today.
On on way back to our accommodation - got a phone all from my German mate Sven - saying he was going to meet us in Peyrehorade - he had driven the whole way from Frankfurt! Anyway just back from a great night out - great catch up about our stories of our last Camino walk together - I wish he could join me for the walk but he's going back first thing  in the morning - a flying visit!!!

Day 64..... It's a lot faster in a car!

Today we drove over the border to Spain. It was great seeing my first glimpse of the Pyrenees - France is very flat - perfect for cycling but I've really missed the views.  We arrived at Bilbao at about 12 but spent a fractious hour trying to find the hotel - Bilboa is a maze of one way streets and even the local police couldn't give us directions and at that time we were only two streets away. We had hoped to vist the Guggenheim museum but it was closed so we'll go in the morning instead before heading back north to Dax where I
will pick up my walk again. 
Wore the new boots around the streets and now my feet are really sore - it is hateful starting with new boots again. However my walking days are much shorter anyway as the daylight hours are much shorter but once I'm on Camino proper I'm hoping to average 20 miles a day because accommodation shouldn't be a problem.
Nora was able to show me the latest photos of my grandson Ethan and he is growing up so fast - I'm looking forward to seeing him soon.
Noticed an Irish pub round the corner so no prizes for guessing what I'll be drinking tonight but don't let on to my auntie Sheila. Cheers!

Day 62 /Day 63....New Boots arrived!

Left refuge at 9am and enjoyed walking through a lovely forest - an odd shower of rain but a great day for walking.  Stopped at Gourbera for my usual lunch of coffee and bread. Continued my walk to St Paul les Dax. Was getting very excited about my new boots arriving - booked into my room and had a bath. The hotel is next to Lac du Christ and I went a walk round it - there was some kind of festival going on with lots of music, traditional dancing and entertainers on stilts - there was a real buzz about the place. 

Went back to my room and to my surprise there was a knock and there were my boots - I was delighted and it was great to see Nora too, of course! She had got a plane to Bordeaux and hired a car and made her way down - no bother to Wonder Woman!  We're booked in here a couple of nights and I going to have a break for a couple of days - I've been walking everyday for 20 days - so it will be good to have a rest and also I'll need to try to break the new boots in a bit. My old ones have a hole right through the sole.  

By the way there is a bike shop right across the road here and all I seem to hear is the sound of posers on Harleys - I wish I was out on my BSA 650 - there are some great roads for biking and the weather is perfect for biking.

Nora was saying that people were leaving comments on my blog but unless they are 'published' I'm not seeing them - I think you have to log in with your email address so that I can see them.