Day 67 ...getting nearer to Spain

Sven got up very early this morning and left before I got up - it was great seeing my friend - he had driven 1800 ks to see me and only stayed for one night - would have been even better to have spent longer with him but it was great seeing him, he is a real tonic!  Thanks for the visit Sven and thanks for treating us to our tea.  Also had to say bye to Nora this morning  as she was leaving to drive back to Bordeaux with the hire car.  She dropped me off at Sorde l'Abbaye where we had finished yesterday and I found the shell marker easily and set off on my way.  I've swopped rucksacks with Nora as mine was far too big and cumbersome and weighing me down.  I also dumped my old boots and a few bits and bobs which were worse for wear.  
My new boots are wearing in ok, I had been stuffing them with my torch and the coffee jar at night to try and stretch them a bit and it definitely worked, I know it is not a good idea walking with brand new boots but needs be.   
Really enjoyed my walk today, walking towards the foot of the Pyrenees, stunning scenery and  another sweltering day.  Walked through a few wee villages but never saw a soul, just an odd donkey or horse.  In this part of the world there are very few shops in the villages, as they rely on the market days when the wee towns are very busy with dozens of stalls, selling everything from fish to cheese, to soap to frying pans.  Yesterday, Nora and I went round the stalls in the wee town we were staying in and it was very busy and people seem to have come from miles around and stock up.  It is a very different way of life here in France to what we are used too, with shops open 24 hours. 
I walked just over 20 miles today and I am in a great refuge tonight - a monastery at La Palis, run by a lovely Belgian couple, who offered me soup and coffee when I arrived.  I'm the only one here but they are expecting a couple of more walkers later. At this rate I should be at St Jean tomorrow and in Spain by Sunday - hee haw....
Today's song is a great favourite of mine

Roger Waters - Amused to Death

in Bilbao with the spirit of the Camino

Day 65/Day66..... A surprise visitor from Germany!

Spent the morning in the Guggenheim museum and then left Bilboa and made our way back north to France. Stopped off at an information area about the Chemin de St Jacques - it is definitely more known in this part of France.  Found a B&B and worked out where I should pick the walk up again. After another French breakfast of coffee and bread Nora and I start on our walk. It  was a lovely sunny day and the path which was well marked took us through a wooded hilly area. I really enjoyed it - most of my walking has been on flat and very similar  looking countryside. Only walked about 10 k on the road today but unbelievably I will be wearing a hi-viz vest for the first time in my life tomorrow - There goes my street cred but I realise it is just too risky without it on these narrow roads.  Thanks Thirza and Stewart - I know what you thought I would have said but even an ole biker knows when it's just not worth the risk!  Got my Camino passport stamped at Sorde l'Abbaye.  Walked 20 miles today.
On on way back to our accommodation - got a phone all from my German mate Sven - saying he was going to meet us in Peyrehorade - he had driven the whole way from Frankfurt! Anyway just back from a great night out - great catch up about our stories of our last Camino walk together - I wish he could join me for the walk but he's going back first thing  in the morning - a flying visit!!!

Day 64..... It's a lot faster in a car!

Today we drove over the border to Spain. It was great seeing my first glimpse of the Pyrenees - France is very flat - perfect for cycling but I've really missed the views.  We arrived at Bilbao at about 12 but spent a fractious hour trying to find the hotel - Bilboa is a maze of one way streets and even the local police couldn't give us directions and at that time we were only two streets away. We had hoped to vist the Guggenheim museum but it was closed so we'll go in the morning instead before heading back north to Dax where I
will pick up my walk again. 
Wore the new boots around the streets and now my feet are really sore - it is hateful starting with new boots again. However my walking days are much shorter anyway as the daylight hours are much shorter but once I'm on Camino proper I'm hoping to average 20 miles a day because accommodation shouldn't be a problem.
Nora was able to show me the latest photos of my grandson Ethan and he is growing up so fast - I'm looking forward to seeing him soon.
Noticed an Irish pub round the corner so no prizes for guessing what I'll be drinking tonight but don't let on to my auntie Sheila. Cheers!

Day 62 /Day 63....New Boots arrived!

Left refuge at 9am and enjoyed walking through a lovely forest - an odd shower of rain but a great day for walking.  Stopped at Gourbera for my usual lunch of coffee and bread. Continued my walk to St Paul les Dax. Was getting very excited about my new boots arriving - booked into my room and had a bath. The hotel is next to Lac du Christ and I went a walk round it - there was some kind of festival going on with lots of music, traditional dancing and entertainers on stilts - there was a real buzz about the place. 

Went back to my room and to my surprise there was a knock and there were my boots - I was delighted and it was great to see Nora too, of course! She had got a plane to Bordeaux and hired a car and made her way down - no bother to Wonder Woman!  We're booked in here a couple of nights and I going to have a break for a couple of days - I've been walking everyday for 20 days - so it will be good to have a rest and also I'll need to try to break the new boots in a bit. My old ones have a hole right through the sole.  

By the way there is a bike shop right across the road here and all I seem to hear is the sound of posers on Harleys - I wish I was out on my BSA 650 - there are some great roads for biking and the weather is perfect for biking.

Nora was saying that people were leaving comments on my blog but unless they are 'published' I'm not seeing them - I think you have to log in with your email address so that I can see them.

Day 61 ..blazing sun and dodging bullets!

Had a great walk from Onesse however while walking through the forest there were hunters out hunting and there were lots of shots going off, I  just kept my head down and marched as quick as I could - quite unnerving ...  Arrived in Lesperon midday and enjoyed my lunch on the village green - what a lovely wee place.  After my break, continued to walk on a quiet road throughout the forest to Taller  and arrived about 3 this afternoon in my destination for the day - a clean and comfortable place in Gite du Pelerins.   I have everything I need here - really good place and  I made my tea.  I started rereading George Orwell's 1984, so watch out - Big Brother is watching..  I walked another 17 miles today.

Day 60...That's my chores done for the day.

Noticing the days are closing in, it was still dark and wet when I started out from L'arc en Ciel at 8 this morning.  I had to walk along a busy road for about 5k, it felt quite risky, I really don't  like walking along fast traffic anyway I found  a small track next to the motorway and walked for another 2 hours and then it took me through forest to Onesse et Laharie to my fantastic refuge for the night - auberge Caule which I have all to myself again.  There's even a shop across the road, so I don't have to tramp around looking for one. 

 Again another night of housework, made my tea and washed my kit and got it up to dry. You're not the only domestic goddess, Lynne Gracie! 

Ended up a lovely bright and sunny day and nice and warm - about 20c - walked 17 miles today.

song for todayOld Crow Medicine Show - "Bootlegger's Boy" Live at the Grand Ole Opry
 

Day 59...Another great refuge tonight

Much as I loved the teepee, my clothes felt wet in the morning so didn't feel great putting on damp clothes.  Anyway, started walking at 8.30 and had a lovely walk by the riverside and forest to Pissos which is a beautiful little town and I had a coffee there.  Carried on walking through more woods but then had to join a busy road which was very straight and long, quite a contrast.  Arrived in L'arc en Ciel and found the  Labouheyre refuge and was welcomed by Madeline.  I was able to have a good hot shower and made a pizza for for my tea.  I walked 18 miles today and it was a pleasant 20c with sun and showers.